Motorcycle Repair: Replacing Throttle Cable on old Suzuki, throttle cables, throttle valve

Question
Hi Mark,

> ...anchor them into the carb linkage bead slots.

mmhhh... not so easy. The routing is fine, the same as previously and I have full slack on the wire. But I can't get the bead into the slot. If I have the throttle valve fully open (butterfly horizontal) I can't fit the bead between the fuel-mix-channel and the bead slot. If it's closed the bead needs to be turned upside down to slot in, but in a very tight space. Which one is more likely to succeed? Or can I somehow open the throttle valve more?

BTW, is there a brand of bike which has this issue solved better? I'm thinking of buying a new one next year.

Thanks a lot for your help and motivation,

Tom

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Followup To
Question -
Hi Mark,

I need to replace the throttle cable on my 1987 GSX 550L. The handle bar end was no problem but I'm struggling down at the carbs. I have a space problem with putting the new one in.

It seems that I can not hook the cable in while the carbs are in blace cause there is not enough space between the air/fuel-channel and the slot for the 'knot' (at the end of the throttle cable). That is, when the valves in the carbs are fully open. I mean, there is maybe 3mm space but the lead thingy needs around 5mm to fit in. If I leave the valves closed it also seems problematic because I have to twist the 'knot' around to be able to slot it in.

Is there an easier way to get the throttle cable into place than taking out the carbs? Is there some trick I should know? Or can I somehow rotate the valves more, to get hole where there is more space? Or would a special tool help (eg. long pliers)? If the carbs must go out, is there an easy trick to get them back in again? I had a lot of problems with this last time I cleaned them.

I appreciate your help cause I dread the thought of having to remove the carbs while temperatures are below freezing.

Thanks a lot,
Tom
Answer -
Hi Tom,

Installing the throttle cables on this model can be frustrating.

Make maximum slack at the cable adjusters on the handlebar. untighten the the round lock-nut, wind adjusters back exposing minimal threads as possible. Route cables through frame and engine properly. Tighten or loosen engine idle adjuster if it will give any additional clearance for installation. On the carb end of cables, run adjusting nuts (top nuts) up until they contact the part they are threaded to. Loosen the locking nuts (bottom nuts) completely-let them free fall on the cable. Route the cable ends (lead beads) properly and anchor them into the carb linkage bead slots. Thread the lower locking nuts. Adjust throttle cables per service manual instructions and tighten lower locking nuts.

Try to avoid kinking cables. Throttle must have about 5mm of play (slop) meaning, it should rotate about 1/4 of an inch before engine accelerates. If there is not sufficient throttle play, carb Venturis (main bore thru carbs) will not open fully.

Its a pain in the buttocks. Be patient. If you continue to have problems, send me a pics of the cables and carbs. My email addy is: mshively1@woh.rr.com

It's possible you have the wrong cables, right cables (but defective), aftermarket handlebars or carbs, or other mis-matches.

Respectfully,
Mark Shively  

Answer
Tom,

Can you send images of the carbs? I need to see them.

Visit "www.bikebandit.com"  Click "OEM Parts" and select your MC from the pop-up menus. Click "carburetors" and see microfiche parts. Use part numbers to describe to me which part is causing the hang-up.

Use my email to reply: mshively1@woh.rr.com

Newer MC's are MUCH better. That problem is isolated to a few old MC's, including your Suzuki.

Mark