Motorcycle Repair: Testing Continuity, stator assembly, testing continuity


Question
  I Have an 86 GL Aspencade. The chargeing seytem in not working. I checked the fuseable link like the repair manuel instructed. It show a discharge at all times. But the needle does show a increase when the the motor rpm is increased. But not enough to show a postive charge. The question I have is how to check the continuity at the 3-pin alternator connector. I had to replace this connection a couple years ago. Do your take the connection loose and test each side or leave them connected, and what should the ohm meter read?

Answer
Hi Ron,

Check continuity by isolating the parts being checked. If these three wires have been soldered, de-solder them and then test. Otherwise, disconnect the multiconnector and test bewteen any two yellow leads, and any lead and ground.

Should have infinite Ohms (full meter sweep with analog VOM). Check the service manual for exact resistance specs. I cannot remember the values.

Soldering these three yellow leads reduces resistance and was a modification to help prevent stator failure on the 85-86 GL12's.

Check www.electrexusa.com for replacement parts.


Here's a few GL website resources:

http://wings.astcomm.net/electrical.html

www.epilcher.com/gl1000/carbs.htm

www.randakks.com

www.geocities.com/SouthBeach/Plateau/2800/gl1000.html

http://msproul.rutgers.edu/motorcycle/gwfaq.html

www.bikebandit.com

Respectfully,
Mark Shively



The following article submitted by Ken Chapin on Dec 26, 1999
GL 1000/1100/1200 Stator Testing Procedures

For the purpose of testing the Stator assembly, use the following procedure:

1. Check the ACG coupler for discoloration, which indicates overheating and it is faulty.  This is the connector to the immediate left of the battery and consists of 3 yellow wires.  If the connector is found to be discolored and/or brittle from overheating, an ACG Coupler Repair Kit (Part # 31105-ML8-305) is available from your local HONDA dealer.  Ensure that the coupler is well packed with dielectric grease.  An alternative is to remove the coupler altogether and hardwire/solder the yellow wires together.  This method is also acceptable but does make future testing somewhat difficult and would require cutting of the wiring.

2. Unplug the ACG coupler and start the engine.
WARNING:  Unplugging the ACG coupler while the engine is running can cause sparks which can ignite flammable fuel vapors.  You could be burned.  Do not unplug the ACG coupler while the engine is running.

3. Using a voltmeter, measure the A.C. voltage between each pair of the three (3) yellow wires in the ACG coupler that leads to the rear of the engine and enters through the rubber grommet leading to the Stator.  Conduct the voltage tests between wires A and B, A and C and finally between B and C.  With the engine at a steady 3,000 RPM, the voltage should be at least 50 Volts of A.C. voltage from each pair (or phase).

4. If the test indicates 50 Volts A.C. voltage or more from each pair (or phase), the Stator does not require replacement.  However, if either pair of wires does show less than 50 Volts of A.C. voltage, replace the Stator.

5. Continuity tests must also be performed to determine if the Stator has developed an electrical short within itself or if it has shorted to ground. With your test meter set on Ohms @ R X 1, check for continuity between each pair (or phase) of yellow wires, A and B, A and C and B and C.  You should have continuity at all three pairs (or phases).  If you find any one pair with no continuity, then this indicates an open circuit in the windings of the Stator and it requires replacement.  Then check for continuity between each yellow wire to a source of ground.  You should NOT have continuity and if you do find continuity at any wire, this indicates a short within the stator windings and requires replacement.

** For your stator to be healthy, it must pass all of the above tests.