QuestionQUESTION: I have a 94 D21 4 cly. I changed the starter and still same issue. When its cold 30 to 40 degrees or so. I crank the truck and the starter acts like its in a bind turning the engine and there is also a knock as it turns. I can try to start it and then stop and go back to it a few minutes later and the knock is gone but its still hard to start. Last afternoon it was around 50 degrees and it cranked over in a few turns but it runs ruff for a minute or so and then clears up and sounds fine. I've changed Spark plugs , Distrib Cap , Rotor button , Starter , Fuel Pump , Fuel Filter , Oil Filter , Air Filter , Battery and ends , and clutch operating cylinder because it sat in my yard for four years without a start. I can get it running on a semi warm day but when its cold , it sounds like the flywheel is having a hard time cranking over the engine. I saw something on a crank angle sensor somewhere , and something else on a fuel regulator but I'm kinda just tired of throwing money at it to be honest. I just need a masters opinion.
ANSWER: Jason,
The crank angle sensor is the distributor. So, if it is contaminated with oil, on the optical shutter wheel, replace with a rebuilt unit. But, from what you describe the knock sensor is going out. Read the codes and email me back with the codes and we'll know more...
The ECU has a window on one side to view a red LED and a green LED - when checking fault codes, a red flash is worth 10, and a green flash is worth 1. So for example, the code to say that everything is functioning normally would be 5 red flashes and 5 green flashes - the code is 55.
The ECU has 5 modes of operation, for diagnostics codes, it has to be set to mode 3.
1. Make sure the screw next to the viewing window is turned clockwise.
2. Turn the ignition on
3. Both LEDs with flash once, then a pause, then a second time, then a pause, etc. etc. up to 5 times then will repeat the process. After is has flashed 3 times then turn the screw completely anti-clockwise. - this will select mode 3.
4. The LEDs will now flash codes. 55 means that everything is normal. The rest are written below.
5. When finished, turn the screw back to clockwise and the ECU will reset itself automatically.
Don't worry about the '5th cylinder misfire' and '6th cylinder misfire' or anything, the codes are the same for all Nissans.
11 Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor.
12 Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor.
13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor.
21 Ignition Signal.
22 Fuel Pump.
23 Idle Switch.
24 Throttle Valve Switch.
25 Idle Speed Control Valve.
28 Cooling Fan Circuit.
31 ECM.
32 EGR Function.
33 Heated Oxygen Sensor.
34 Knock Sensor.
35 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor.
36 EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer.
37 Knock Sensor.
38 Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2).
41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
42 Fuel Temperature Sensor.
43 Throttle Position Sensor.
45 Injector Leak.
47 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
51 Injector Circuit.
53 Oxygen Sensor.
54 A/T Control.
55 No Malfunction.
63 No. 6 Cylinder Misfire.
64 No. 5 Cylinder Misfire.
65 No. 4 Cylinder Misfire.
66 No. 3 Cylinder Misfire.
67 No. 2 Cylinder Misfire.
68 No. 1 Cylinder Misfire.
71 Random Misfire.
72 TWC Function right hand bank.
73 TWC Function right hand bank.
76 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit.
82 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line.
85 VTC Solenoid Valve Circuit.
86 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
87 Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
94 TCC Solenoid Valve.
95 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
98 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
101 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
103 Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit.
105 EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
108 Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit
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QUESTION: Well I checked what you said and btw , great info there and thanks a bunch for all of this , the code it reported back was 55.
Perhaps I just need to put some fuel cleaner etc in the engine , but there is a low whining sound that sounds like its rotating at a much slower pace than the engine on a cold start and it sounds like gears whining together on about I would say perhaps 60 to 70 rotations a minute , maybe a little faster than one rotation a second and its more prominant and slightly faster if I try to rev the engine up to 2 k or so on a cold start but it gos away after a couple minutes. I was thinking perhaps old gunky tranny fluid around the clutch parts? Maybe a bad water pump impeller ? While its doing this low rumbleish type whine , it will slowly die the engine out unless i pump the pedal some. I bought new tranny fluid for it , so I guess I'll try that , maybe it just needs a changing badly. Any other ideas are well appreciated and thanks once again.
AnswerJason,
A tuneup first would be in order. Include a fuel filter with that as well as an air filter and a PCV valve. Another check of codes would be prudent after you so a tuneup and check the codes again. Other possibilities are teh air meter or the idle air control valve.
