Nissan Repair: 1988 maxima elect., fuse panel, haynes manual


Question
sorry, i dont know the first thing about the devices you mentioned, the 1st thing you said was volt/ohm thingy. is that the thing that checks continuity? if so what part do you touch to what part of the fuse? I think i have a test light it looks like a screw driver only more like an ice pick w/a black wire bla bla bla. also theres a red thingy w/ 1 red and 1 blk wire, an d again i have no clue what to touch or what not to touch thats the part that worries me. i have both a chiltons and a haynes manual and have read them both cover to cover and have even retained a bit of what ive read but mostly im brand new at havin greasy hands so please forgive me if i seem blonde.    
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-----Question-----
when you say each fuse and relay do you mean in car and under hood or just under hood? the fusible link looks melted on the holder but the wire looks ok but i may not know what im looking for
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-----Question-----
hi, my '88 maxima either has electrical problems or its posessed. 1st the pass. side auto. seat belt didnt work then the interior light quit then they both came back on at different times then the rear defrost quit and at the same time overdrive quit and the r.h. seal belt again.  the e c u gave a code of 13 which is the engine temp. sensor but whats with all the other stuff. the radiator fan fuse inside the car blows so does the 30 amp one under the hood. also when i touched a wire connected to an injector the car dies. aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaargh
-----Answer-----
Tami,

First, the fuse panel on your Maxima is probably shorting out.  I would check where the relays and fuses for the items indicated connect and wiggle the wires and pull each fuse and relay independent of each other, one at a time and then re-insert them.  This will act to clean the connections.  Galvonics comes into play on older cars.  The metal starts sticking to each other and corrosion builds and you get intermittent connection.  That is why I say pull each fuse and relay, one at a time and reinsert.  Also, check the fuse links at the positive battery cable and do the same thing with each of these.  Now, on the injectors; if the car dies then the wires are shorting when you touch them.  Use WD40 spray on each and lightly spritz each to dissipate any water.  If the fan fuse blow the fan is probably binding up and is in need of replacement.  Email me back if you need further assistance.
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Tami,l

Yes, check all the fuses inside and out under the hood too.  You can get a volt/ohm meter to test the fuse links and fuses that look suspect.  Continuity testing is the easy to know for sure.  Basically, the meter is set to continuity and when you touch each end the light should come on.

Answer
Tami,

Yes, you could use the test light to touch each side of the fuse while it is still in the car and check for continuity.  But, remember that some circuits are on only with the car on.  So, that is a good and effective way to check them.  Ground the clip to a good metal surface and touch the point on the metal test points on each fuse.  If it lights on one side and not the other it would be the fuse.