Porsche Repair: 944 Wont stay running + Backfires, distributer cap, vacuum leaks


Question
I have checked the door and it does move freely... but I also looked at the magnetic strip, which looks kinda worn. But I moved the door and listened. It only seems to squeak a little.
I will check the Vacuum hoses.

But today while working on my non-working sunroof. I tried to start the car again. It seems like it wanted to keep itself running. It Idled at about 1000rpm and when I floored it, it got up to only 3. I didnt backfire as much, although it seemed to be completely unresponsive to the throttle after pressing and releasing once.

I dont know if that changes anything. I was told to replace the fuel filter  by a friend of mine. Would this help?

Thank you very much. for your incredibly rapid response. You have no idea how much I appreciate your help!

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Followup To
Question -
I just got a 944 n/a for cheap  and when I got it it wasnt running too well. It would rev up and down constantly (on and off the Throttle). I noticed the Air Intake boot was ripped to shreds so i replaced it. And now it will not stay running unless I have the throttle at least 80% open or so. It's worse somehow!

I figured it may need to just blow some crap out of the engine. So I kept it floored for a bit but the exhaust got progressively darker and it backfired violently a couple times. So enough was enough. I have no idea where to start now, I think it's the fuel system, but again I have no idea where to start.

I also took off the plug wires... and looked at the plugs and checked the compression (all 4 were >140) but the plug ends were black. I also checked the distributer cap which looked new. The plug wires all also new (Beru).

'Thank you VERY much for any help!
Answer -
Hi Brett.

I'd bet there are several problems at once, but let's address two to at least start eliminating possibilities.

1.  More vacuum leaks.  If some rubber was in bad shape much rubber could be in bad shape.  I'd spend some patient time replacing the vacuum hoses so you'll know they are good and they have strong connections.  Any vacuum leak would give you erratic running.

2.  Your air flow meter could be a culprit.  It's basically a door (an opening- closing flap) that moves in relation to the air being sucked into the intake manifold.  The movement of the door and it's opening size is reported to the computer which takes ths into consideration when sending fuel...it tries to match air and fluel for the most efficient burn.  If the flap door is slow moving or stuck because of dirt and grime the computer would get false readings and send more or less fuel than actually needed.  Here...the trick is to find the magic door and clean it so it sparkles...OK...so it moves freely.

Dave  

Answer
Hi Brett...you're welcome.  

Be careful asking about the fuel filter...you may be opening pandora's box.  Actually, what I'm thinking is that like the fuel filter, just about every changeable tune-up item on your car is unknown to you and likely needs to be renewed.  That way you will have an accurate gauge on how old things like the spark plugs and the distributor rotor are, for example.  Some of this costs some money, but the sooner you make everything fresh again, the better off you will be.  

About the fuel filter...I'd replace it and them add a trick...up between the engine compartment hard fuel lines and the engine itself the fuel lines become rubber lines...one trick is to cut into this line and install a clear fuel filter in addition to the real one...this will allow you a quick glance at the crud or lack of it in the fuel system.

Dave