QuestionDoes the GCV 160 5.5hp ohv honda engine have any adjustment screws? Mine runs nicely while choked, but dies when I release the choke.
I'd like to remove the carburetor for a good soak. How do you remove the carburetor from the GCV 160 5.5hp ohv honda engine? I can all the screws off, but those throttle and carb wires are tricky. Any tips?
What about a fuel filter? I couldn't find one on any of the diagrams i looked at.
Lastly, if i can't remove the carb, is there any way to clean the carb without removing it completely?
Thanks,
AnswerHello Derek:
>>You can View a Breakdown/IPL of this Engine at this Site Addy, http://www.outdoordistributors.com/parts.html and Select the H. Then Select Honda. Then Select Don't have Part Numbers. Now Enter you Engine Model Numbers in the Space Provided and Click Search. Now Select your Engine Breakdown for Online Viewing. **Note: you can Download and Save the Breakdown for your Engine by Selecting the 2nd Icon from the Left at the Top of the PDF page.**
The Following is a Basic Instruction File I Made for Removing Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Remove the Breather Assembly. Once the Air Filter is Removed you will See the Mounting Bolts for the Lower Section of the Breather Assembly. Once the Breather Assembly is Off the Carburetor you can See the 2 Mounting Bolts that Hold the Carburetor to the Intake Pipe. Disconnect the Carburetor Solenoid Wire. Turn Off the Gas Flow to the Carburetor and Disconnect the Gas Line from the Carburetor. Unbolt the Carburetor from the Intake Pipe. ***I Suggest you Take a Few Good Pictures of the Carburetor Linkage where it Connects to the Carburetor and where it Connects to the Governor Assembly. This Way if you Forget How the Linkage was Attached you have a Way to View the Connections.***Once the 2 Bolts have Been Removed; Carefully Turn and Twist the Carburetor so the Linkage can be Removed from the Carburetor Throttle Plate. Soak, Clean and Rebuild or Replace the Carburetor. Simply Reverse the Above Procedure to Attach the Carburetor onto the Intake Pipe.
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve.
Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welsh Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Needle Valve.
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>Note: **Pay Close Attention to the Adjusting Screws and Remember which Hole the were Removed from. They MUST be Replaced Into the SAME Hole they were Removed from!!!**
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Set the Idle Screw so the Engine will Idle (even if a little high) and then Using the Governor Arm (on chainsaws and trimmers use the Trigger) Rev the Engine Up and Down Until and Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links Below Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
>>Looking at the Breakdown of the Carburetor, you will See Screws # 4 and 23 . These are the Air Mixture Screws. Your Carburetor may Only have #23.
>>The Following is the Instruction File for Setting the Air Mixture Screws. Any Input is Appreciated. The Procedure is the Same for 1 or 2 Mixture Screws, Just Use the Instruction File and Skip Over the Section with the Missing Mixture Screw ( Usually the H Mixture Screw).
>>Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air (L) and Main Air (H) Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine.
>>Turn the Main Air (H) Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. **Carefully Use your Finger and Move the Governor Arm to Rev the Engine (on Chainsaws and Trimmers Use the Trigger to Rev the Engine) Until you Reach Max RPMs (on Chainsaws and Trimmers, the RPMs are Not Set to MAX. Set to Max and then Reverse the Setting Screw 1/4 or 1/2 Turn. If the H Mixture Screw is Set too High; the Engine will be Starved for the Oil in the Gas and Damage the Piston and Jug/Cylinder) and the Engine is Running Proper at Full Throttle Up a Grade and for Chainsaws and Trimmers they Do Not Bog Down Under a Load. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs.**
>>Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required.
>>Now Set the Idle Air (L) Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Rapidly Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>Most Do Not have a Fuel Filter unless the Retailer Adds one. I Usually Install an Inline Fuel Filter on the Units that have No Gas Filter.
>>I have Not Found a Way to Clean the Varnish from the Inside of a Small Engine Carburetor other than Soaking.
>>It would take too Many Spray Cans to Strip Away all the Layers of Varnish that Builds up inside these little Carburetors.
>>If you Hit a Snag, have More Questions or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 3 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Follow Up Questions are Received Anytime. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
