QuestionQUESTION: Hi,
I inherited a Choremaster power washer with a Briggs MagnumXE 6.0 engine that had not been run for awhile, perhaps a few years. This engine has not choke but uses a primer bulb. On the initial start up try, the engine would catch but die immediately, but would stay running as long as I kept punching the primer bulb. Took the carbeurator apart and cleaned it in solvent (twice), with no change either time. Still dies if you don't keep priming it continually. What should I try next? Your help is much appreciated.
ANSWER: Hello Jim:
Send me the Model and Type or Spec Numbers Off the Engine, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manual and Better Assist you. The Model Numbers May be Stamped Into the Blower Housing (metal engine cover) Above the Spark Plug. Many horizontal shaft, overhead valve engines have these numbers stamped into the OHV rocker cover. However, on certain overhead valve powered generators, the equipment manufacturer installs a decorative chrome rocker cover OVER the Briggs cover. If your engine has a decorative cover, it may be necessary to remove it in order to locate the Model, Type, and Code. You can Also Use this Site Addy; http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/BS_modeltypecode.pdf for Assistance in Locating the Model, Type and Code Numbers of the Engine. Some of these Engines Use a Throw Away Carburetor and there is Not a Kit Available for them. These carburetor can be Replaced for $20.00us and Usually, if Cleaning Does Not Correct the Carburetor Problem the Most Cost Effective Way to Correct the Problem is to Replace the Carburetor. If you Did Not Soak the Carburetor in Cleaning Solution, then the Carburetor is Not Clean Yet. The Cost of the Cleaning Solution I Use is $30.00us @ Gallon (I Use Gunk). The Gallon Can Comes with a Tray for Small Parts and the Carburetor Fits Nicely. Most Times a Carburetor can be Soaked and Cleaned and with the Float, Needle Valve and Other Carburetor Components being Soaked in the Cleaner with the Carburetor Body; there are No Parts to Replace on this Carburetor. If you Soak and Clean this Carburetor and the Float Needle Valve Still Does Not Stop the Gas Flow Properly, then Purchase a Needle and Seat Kit and Replace it. The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. The Most Common Cause is; The Carburetors Internal Passages are Restricted by Varnish that Gas Forms Over Time. This Varnish is in Layers. To Properly Remove this Varnish you have to Soak the Carburetor. The Following is a General Instruction File for Carburetor Cleaning. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time. I Suggest you Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor Inlet Port (if the Model does Not have a Fuel Pump). If the Gas is Free Flowing to the Inlet Port, then **Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve and Needle Valve Seat if Applicable. This is a Flat O-Ring Located in the Inlet Port the Float Needle Rests in. Use a Strong Wire with a Slight Bend to Remove the Old Seat. Sometimes a Small Pocket Screw Driver can be Use Also. The New Seat will have a Slightly Beveled Side and a Flat Side. The Flat Side goes Towards the Carburetor Body when Inserted into the Inlet Port. Spray the Seat with Spray Lubricant to make Installation Easier. The End of a Drill Bit that is Slightly Small than the Seat can be Use as an Insertion Tool. Wear Gloves or Use a Rag when Handling the Sharpened End of the Drill Bit. Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.*** (Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***. ****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body. If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body. Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws: ****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.**** If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment. Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components. If you have Questions, Please Ask. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: John,
The numbers I found on the B&S engine are: 12H702-1718-D1-03031158. It is a Quantum XE, 6.0 HP. I did soak the carb in Gunk parts cleaner for more than 24 hours. I also noticed that the other way to keep the engine running is to restrict the air intake with a rag. Seems to me this would indicate it is not receiving enough gas relative to air?
AnswerHello Again Jim:
Thanks for the Numbers and the Extra Information on How you can Get the Engine to Run. You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Engine at this Site Addy; http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/manual_and_more/doclist.aspx?categ and Enter the Model Numbers (12H702) and the First 4 Type Numbers (1718) in the Appropriate Boxes and Click GO. Then Select Download PDF. You are Correct, the Engine is Not Pulling Enough Gas to Keep Running. Since the Carburetor has been Soaked and Cleaned; it has been Eliminated as the Cause of the Problem. Since you can Run the Engine a Little, Using a Rag, then Do So and Using WD40, Spray Around the Intake Gasket. If the Engine Tries to Rev, then Replace the Intake Gasket. If Not, then; Check the Engines Compression. It is Most Likely going to be Low. It Sounds like; 1- the Head Gasket May be Blown, 2- the Valve Clearance Requires Adjusting or 3- the Valves Require Reseating and then Adjusting the Clearance. 1- I am in the Process of Making a Basic Instruction File for Replacing the Head Gasket/s on Small Engines. It is Not Complete. I will Supply Answers to Any Questions you May Have when Replacing the Head Gasket. Using the Breakdowns Found at the Site Addy I Provided, is Usually All you Require. The Torque Specifications for the Head Bolts are; 140 Inch Pounds or 12 Foot Pounds. Usually you will Require an Inch Pound Torque Wrench to Torque the Head Bolts. Harbor Freight has them for Approximately $40.00us at Times. 2 & 3- On this Model Engine I Usually Suggest Reseating the Valves if the Valve Clearance Requires Adjusting. The Following is a General Instruction File for Setting the Valve Clearance on Non OHV Engines. **Remove the Carburetor and the Crankcase Breather/Vent and the Valve (Stem) Cover so you have Access to the Valve Stems, Springs and Keepers. Set 1 Cylinder to TDC on the Compression Stroke. Using a Blade Style Feeler Gauge, Check the Clearances. The Intake should be .005in - .007in and Exhaust .008in - .010in. If the Feeler Gauge will Not Slide Between the Valve Tip and the Tappet, then you Must Reset the Clearances. **You Will Require a Small Engine Valve Spring Compressor to Remove the Springs and Keepers from the Valve Stems.** Some Engines Use a Valve Keeper that is like Automotive Keepers (2 Cone Shaped Keepers that Set in the Valve Retainer/Rotocoil Assembly)and the Other Style is a Slotted Retainer that is Moved (once the Valve Spring is Compressed) to the Larger Opening in the Retainer and the Retainer Slips Over the Valve Stem Tip for the Valve to be Removed. Remove the Heads. Set 1 Cylinder so the Piston is at TDC on the Compression Stroke And Check the Clearances Between the Valve Stem Tip and the Tappet. The Clearances are as Follows: Intake Valve Clearance is .005in - .007in and the Exhaust is .008in - .010in. You have to Lightly Grind the Valve Stem Tip and Place the Valve Back Into the Engine (you can Hold the Valve Seated by Hand) and Check the Clearance Until you Reach the Required Clearances. **++** For this Engine Model I Suggest you Reseat the Valves while you are Setting the Correct Valve Clearance. For this you will Need a Small Valve Seat Suction Tool. This can Usually be Purchased for $10.00us and has a Suction Cup that Hold the Valve Head so you can Turn the Valve Back and Forth and Dress up the Valve Seat. Valve Grinding Compound is Approximately $5.00us a Tube and a Tube Last the Shop About a Year. It Doesn't Take a Lot to Reseat 1 Engine.**++** Once the Valve Clearances are Reached and the Valve Seat is Nice and Dull; Re-Install the Valves on that Cylinder and Turn the Other Cylinder to TDC on the Compression Stroke and Set that Cylinders Valve Clearances. Once that Cylinder is Set, then Re-Assemble the Engine.** If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
