Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): Engine wont crank, briggs and stratton, battery car

Question
Hi.  First off I am very mechanically handicapped but am trying to improve.  I have a Troybilt Pony with a Briggs and stratton  17.5  IC  OHV  #31c707   0154   
It will not start for me.  I searched through previous posts and tried the steps to jump the starter and had no success.  I also tried the solenoid.  I tried jumping with a car battery(car NOT running) and got the engine to turn for about 1 second.  The next 5 times I turn the key I just get a loud clunk sound.  After about 20 seconds it will turn again for about 1 second.  It seems to be getting resistance from somewhere and makes a whining noise like a spring being pulled. It had been getting hard to start for the past month but I always managed to get it.  I took the battery in to get tested, but they said it was fine.  I saw a suggestion about trying to turn the engine by hand, but I am not sure how to go about that.  I can turn the belt for the blades, but meet some resistance in spots.  When I tried to move the mower to my garage with more light, I noticed it seems to be stuck in gear.  I can move the lever to forward, N, and reverse
but the mower still won't roll (not sure if that is connected).  It seems to me that either the starter
is binding or the valves need reset (I have no idea what that means but saw it somewhere and it sounded good).
How can I isolate the problem more?  Thanks in advance for any help you can give.

Sorry, one more thing.  Earlier this year during its first use for the season I ran out of gas.  I had the old gas
in the tank and no treatment over the winter (lesson learned).  After I fueled it up it would smoke and run very roughly.  It would run ok at low throttle, but blow smoke and run badly at full throttle or the blades engaged.
I sprayed with carb cleaner and it started to run ok as long as I manually moved a lever on the side.  However,
it did seem to vibrate more than usual.Not sure if connected to this problem, sorry for all the info.  Thanks and have a great weekend.

Answer
Hello Brian:

From your Description it Sounds like; 1- the Valve Clearances Requires Setting and 2- the Carburetor Needle Valve may Not be Setting Properly and has Contaminated the Crankcase Oil with Gas. Check the Crankcase Oil for Gas Contamination. The Following is a Basic File I made for Setting the Valve Clearances. Any Input is Appreciated. **I Do Not Use the Setting Called for by the OEMs. I have Found that the Following Works Best. Remove the Valve Cover (on the Dead Cylinder for Twin Cylinder Engines). Set the Cylinder you are Setting the Valves on to Top Dead Center on the Compression Stroke When Setting the Valve Clearance. Now Loosen the Valve Adjuster Locks and Set the Intake Valve Clearance to .004in -.006in and the Exhaust to .007in - .009in. I have had Better Performance Out of the Mowers and Less Burnt Valves Using these Settings. Be Sure the Piston is at TDC on the Compression Stroke.** On Some Engines you can Us a Straightened Coat Hanger and Feel the Piston. Be Careful and Dont Jam the Wire in the Cylinder. Usually the Piston will Push the Wire Out of the Spark Plug Hole with No Problems. The Following is a General Instruction File for Carburetor Cleaning. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time. I Suggest you Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor Inlet Port. If the Gas is Free Flowing to the Inlet Port, then  **Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve and Needle Valve Seat if Applicable. This is a Flat O-Ring Located in the Inlet Port the Float Needle Rests in. Use a Strong Wire with a Slight Bend to Remove the Old Seat. Sometimes a Small Pocket Screw Driver can be Use Also. The New Seat will have a Slightly Beveled Side and a Flat Side. The Flat Side goes Towards the Carburetor Body when Inserted into the Inlet Port. Spray the Seat with Spray Lubricant to make Installation Easier. The End of a Drill Bit that is Slightly Small than the Seat can be Use as an Insertion Tool. Wear Gloves or Use a Rag when Handling the Sharpened End of the Drill Bit. Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.*** (Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***. ****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body. If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is the Farthest from the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body. Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:  ****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.**** If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment. Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor and May Not Reflect Yours. If you have Questions, Please Ask. Send me the Model Numbers Off the Mower, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manual and Better Assist you. The Model Numbers are Usually Located Under the Seat on a Sticker or Tag on the Body. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem,  I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. I Hope you had a Happy 4th. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.

Respectfully

John