Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): 1450 cub cadet automatic compression relief, twin cylinder engines, breather vent

Question
Recently I replaced piston rings and lapped my valves without interferring with the camshaft/crankshaft timing.
I have fire and fuel but suspect my exhaust slighty opens again near the top of the compression stroke leaving no source for combustion. My book tells me (engine ser# 8247215)valves are adjustable and the valve lift for intake and exhaust is the same. I did notice the exhaust valve extends much higher than the intake valve. My book also tells me that the ACR tab can be bent but doesn't show an illustration. I thought I read that I could tap on the valve with a wooden dowell but am reluctant to do that.
Any help would be appreciated.
danny in Oklahoma

Answer
Hello Danny:

Send me the Model and Type or Spec Numbers Off the Engine, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manual and Better Assist you. The Model Numbers May be Stamped Into the Blower Housing (metal engine cover) Above the Spark Plug. I Do Not Suggest Using Anything and Tap on the Exhaust Valve. I have Tried it a Few Times and End Up Pulling the Oil Pan/Sump Anyway. I Usually End up with the (ACR) Compression Release Bent too Much. For OHV Engines: **I Do Not Use the Setting Called for by the OEMs. I have Found that the Following Works Best. Remove the Valve Cover (on the Dead Cylinder for Twin Cylinder Engines). Set the Cylinder you are Setting the Valves on to Top Dead Center (Both Rocker Arms will have Play in them when the Engine is at TDC) on the Compression Stroke When Setting the Valve Clearance. Now Loosen the Valve Adjuster Locks and Set the Intake Valve Clearance to .004in -.006in and the Exhaust to .007in - .009in. I have had Better Performance Out of the Mowers and Less Burnt Valves Using these Settings. Be Sure the Piston is at TDC on the Compression Stroke.** For Non OHV Engines:  Remove the Carburetor and the Crankcase Breather/Vent (# 8-1) and the Valve (Stem) Cover (# 8-2) so you have Access to the Valve Stems, Springs and Keepers. Set 1 Cylinder to TDC on the Compression Stroke. Using a Blade Style Feeler Gauge, Check the Clearances. The Intake should be .004in - .006in and Exhaust .007in - .009in. If the Feeler Gauge will Not Slide Between the Valve Tip and the Tappet, then you Must Reset the Clearances. **You Will Require a Small Engine Valve Spring Compressor to Remove the Springs and Keepers from the Valve Stems.** Some Engines Use a Valve Keeper that is like Automotive Keepers (2 Cone Shaped Keepers that Set in the Valve Retainer/Rotocoil Assembly)and the Other Style is a Slotted Retainer that is Moved (once the Valve Spring is Compressed) to the Larger Opening in the Retainer and the Retainer Slips Over the Valve Stem Tip for the Valve to be Removed. Remove the Heads. Set 1 Cylinder so the Piston is at TDC on the Compression Stroke And Check the Clearances Between the Valve Stem Tip and the Tappet. The Clearances are as Follows: Intake Valve Clearance is .004in - .006in and the Exhaust is .007in - .009in. You have to Lightly Grind the Valve Stem Tip and Place the Valve Back Into the Engine (you can Hold the Valve Seated by Hand) and Check the Clearance Until you Reach the Required Clearances. Once the Valve Clearances are Reached, Re-Install the Valves on that Cylinder and Turn the Other Cylinder to TDC on the Compression Stroke and Set that Cylinders Valve Clearances.  Once that Cylinder is Set, then Re-Assemble the Engine. For Replacing/Repairing the ACR: This is a Simple Process. Drain the Oil and Remove the Engine to the Work Bench with the Oil Pan Facing Up. I have a Wooden Rest that was Especially Made to Hold the Engine when in this Position. Using Fine Sand Paper, Remove ALL the Rust and Debris from the Crankshaft. Remove the Oil Pan Bolts. After All the Oil Pan Bolts are Removed; Tap Lightly on the Sides of the Oil Pan to Loosen it from the Dowel Pins. When the Oil Pan is Removed, you can See the Governor and ACR (usually attached to the Cam or is Made Into the Exhaust Lobe. If Made into the Exhaust Lobe, then Replace the Cam) Resting on Top of the Cam Gear. Lift Off and Replace with a New Governor and ACR. Check the Engine Block for Debris from the Old Governor and ACR and Wipe the Inside of the Block With a Rag, Until Clean. Set the Governor So it is Resting on the Governor Shaft and Carefully Replace the Oil Pan. Remember to Replace the Oil Pan Gasket. If the Crankshaft Seal Was Not Leaking, then Leave it Alone. It Should be OK. You can Easily Replace it While Mounted on the Machine if Required Later. Make Sure the Governor Stays in Contact with the Governor Shaft while Replacing the Oil Pan. Re - Mount the Engine to the Machine. Refill With Oil. These Instructions are Basic. Your Internal Governor and ACR May Differ. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem,  I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.

Respectfully

John