Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): chainsaw wont start, starter rope, diagnostic instructions


Question
QUESTION: Did Phil get his Sears chainsaw started? I have an identical situation with my Craftsman,358.354830-3.7/18".I tried everything he tried plus my flywheel key is fine.I had to put a new starter rope on and now it won't start.Not a burp. The ignition module did not move so the airgap is fine. Any fresh ideas?

ANSWER: Hello Mike:

I Believe he Wrote Back that the Flywheel Key was Damaged. Did you Remove the Muffler and Inspect the Exhaust Port for Carbon Blocking the Exhaust Port. Check the Muffler and Spark Arrestor Screen (in the muffler) for Blockage Also. What is the Compression? What Happens if you Pour a Small Amount of Gas into the Carburetor Throat and Try to Start the Engine? Thanks.

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.

Respectfully

John

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I've checked out and tried everything you suggested.I bought this chainsaw new over 20 years ago and have never taken it to a repair shop.I have totally heated our house using it.I hate to admit defeat.Maybe a couple more suggestions will be the magic touch. Thanks.

Answer
Hello Again Mike:

I Hate to Say it; but the Cause iss Most likely Looking you Straight in the Eye. Back Away from the Repair. Clear your Mind for a While. After your Break follow the Instructions and Do Not Hesitate to Ask if you have a Question. We can get it Going. Here are some Diagnostic Instructions to Do on the Trimmer/Chainsaw to Locate the Hard/Not Starting Problem. 1- Check the Spark. If Not Firing, then Replace. 2-  If the Plug is Firing, then First, Remove the Muffler and Check for Blockage in the Exhaust Port and the Muffler. Check the Spark Arrestor Screen in the Muffler, too. 3- If these are Clear, then Pour a Small Amount of Fuel Mix Into the Carburetor Throat with the Throttle at Full. With the Throttle Still at Full, Try to Start the Engine. If the Engine Starts and Quits, Check the Fuel Filter and Lines. If these are Good, then Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl, Float Pin, Float and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required. Set the Air Mixture Screws as Follows; All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body. If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is the Farthest from the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body. Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:  ****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Don Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.**** 4- If No Fire at the Plug, then Remove the Coil Shut Off Wire from the Kill Switch. Check for Fire. If No Fire, then Remove the Blower Housing and Remove the Ground Wire from the Coil. Check for Fire. If Still No Fire, then the Coil/Ign Module is Bad. 5- If there was No Response from the Engine When the Fuel Mix was Poured Into the Carburetor Throat, then Check the Compression. 6- If the Engine has Compression, Fuel and Spark, but Still Does Not Run, then Check the Flywheel Key. It May be Damaged or Sheared and has the Plug Firing at the Wrong Time During the Power Stroke (compression).  7- Check the Jug Bolts and Gasket. 8- Check the Engine Base Bolts and Gasket. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem,  I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.

Respectfully

John