Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): just wanting to know, briggs stratton engine, briggs stratton

Question
Hello john its been a while. I have a question about repair. I was wanting to know how yall mechanics go about testing electrical. I think i know a little. Correct me if i am wrong. To test starter take a jumper and touch battery post on solenoid and touch post on starter. To check solenoid, take jumper and touch battery post on solenoid and touch small post where ignition switch is. To check switches like brake seat etc use a jumper wire. To check ignitor pull wire coming from coil and try to see if got spark. The only thing i think i need help on is how to check regulator and stator and diode. Sorry for long question. Is there a method you go by to check everything. thanks

Answer
Hi Andy:

Yes, it has been a While. Hope you are Doing Well. Testing the Stator and Regulator is Simple. Check the Voltage from the Stator. If the Voltage is Good, then Connect the Regulator Bact to the Stator and Check the Voltage from the Stator. Selecting The Right Test For Your Alternator:  With the engine off, locate the thin wire(s) extending from beneath the blower housing. These wires attach to the stator under the flywheel and deliver the electrical current from the stator to the battery and other electrical devices. Note the color of the wires (scrape away any engine paint to identify the true wire color), as well as the color of the wire connector, typically an inch or two from the blower housing. For a Briggs & Stratton engine, find the same wire/connector combination on the AC Volts/DC Amps Meter Settings Chart. The chart tells you the type of test to perform (AC Volts or DC Amps), how to set your multitester leads and the correct engine test speed and multitester readings. Use the appropriate test procedure for your engine listed below:
Battery Safety: Small engines typically use lead-acid batteries, which store electrical energy using lead plates and sulfuric acid. The electrolyte fluid in the battery loses its sulfuric acid and gains water as the battery is discharged. Battery electrolyte is extremely corrosive and can cause severe burns to eyes and skin. Batteries produce hydrogen gas that can cause an explosion if ignited by a spark or open flame. Minimize safety hazards by observing these precautions: Follow the manufacturer's recommended procedure for charging, installation, removal and disposal.
ALWAYS hold a battery upright to avoid spilling electrolyte.
Wear protective eyewear and clothing when handling batteries.
If electrolyte spills on skin or splashes in an eye, flush immediately with lots of cold water and contact a physician immediately. Service batteries in a well-ventilated area, away from sources of sparks or flames. Conducting An AC VOLTS Test: If your engine requires an AC VOLTS test (see the AC Volts/DC Amps Meter Settings Chart), set the tester's dial to AC VOLTS and follow these steps: Insert the black multitester lead into the tester's COM receptacle. Connect the other end to ground, such as an engine bolt or cylinder fin, or to the double connector on the stator output wires. Insert the red lead on the multitester into the tester's AC VOLTS receptacle. Connect the red lead to the appropriate stator output wire. Start the engine and let it run for several minutes to read its operating temperature. Then, using a tachometer, set the engine test speed and check the reading on the tester. Replace the stator if the reading is incorrect (see the AC Volts/DC Amps Meter Settings Chart). Turn off the engine and disconnect the multitester from your equipment. Conducting A DC AMPS Test: If your engine requires a DC AMPS test (see the AC Volts/DC Amps Meter Settings Chart), set the tester's dial to DC AMPS and follow these steps:
Insert the black multitester lead into the tester's COM receptacle. Connect the other end to the battery's positive terminal. (NOTE: The battery must be grounded to the equipment frame of the engine block to create a complete circuit.) Insert the red lead on the multitester into the tester's AMPS receptacle. Connect the red lead to the appropriate stator output wire (see the AC Volts/DC Amps Meter Settings Chart). Start the engine and let it run for several minutes to reach its operating temperature. Then, using a tachometer, set the engine test speed and check the reading on the multitester. An incorrect reading indicates that the stator, diode or regulator should be replaced. Turn off the engine and disconnect the tester from your equipment.
Replacing A Stator Under The Flywheel: In most cases, you need to remove the blower housing, rotating screen, rewind clutch and flywheel to get to the stator. If your stator is mounted outside the flywheel, follow the instructions under "Replacing An External Stator". With the flywheel removed, note the path of the stator wires, under on coil spool and between the starter and starter drive housing.
Remove the ground wire or rectifier assembly (if equipped) from the starter drive housing. Then, remove the stator mounting screws and bushings. Before installing a new stator, locate the stator wires against the cylinder and make sure the wires remain clear of the flywheel. Install a new stator assembly, making certain the output wires are properly positioned. While tightening the mounting screws, push the stator toward the crankshaft to take up clearance in the bushing. Then, tighten the screws to 20 inch lbs.
Reinstall the flywheel, screen and blower housing. Then, attach the ground wire or rectifier assembly (if equipped) to the drive housing. Replacing An External Stator: Disconnect the stator output wire from wires leading to the battery or other electrical devices.
Rotate the flywheel until the magnets are positioned away from the stator. Then, loosen the stator mounting bolts and remove the stator from the engine. With the flywheel magnets positioned away from the stator, install the new stator, leaving a wide gap between the stator and flywheel. Tighten one of the mounting bolts.
Reattach the stator output wires. Then, follow the procedure for "Adjusting The Air Gap On An External Stator", below.
Adjusting The Air Gap On An External Stator: The gap between the stator and the flywheel must be set precisely for the stator to function properly. Many stators require a .010" stator air gap. Consult your Briggs & Stratton Authorized Dealer or our Engine Check Chart (PDF) for the proper gap for your stator. Rotate the flywheel until the magnets are positioned away from the stator. Loosen both stator mounting bolts and move the stator away from the flywheel. Then, tighten one of the mounting bolts. Place a shim or microfiche card of the proper thickness between the stator and the flywheel. Turn the flywheel until the magnets are adjacent to the stator. Loosen the tightened bolt and let the magnets pull the stator until it is flush with the shim. Tighten both mounting bolts to 25 inch lbs. Turn the flywheel while pulling on the shim to release it. Here are Some Site Addys that May Assist you. http://faqs.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/faqs.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=3438&p... and http://faqs.custhelp.com/rnt/rnw/img/enduser/105-AC_DC_test_chart.jpg . Hope this Helps. Till Next Time. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe.



Good Luck and Best Wishes

Respectfully

John