Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): Craftsman Lawn Tractor Sputters When Starting, twin cylinder engines, craftsman lawn tractor


Question
QUESTION: John,

I have a Craftsman DYT 4000, Model No. 917.2736403, about three years old.  For the past 6 months or so it seem that when I try to start, it stalls a bit, then finally turns over.  The stalls have been longer as time has passed.

I replaced battery, plug and solenoid and it still stalls.  After it finally starts, the battery indicator needle red lines all the way to the right and eventually returns to normal as it runs.

Any ideas?  Valves, Clean fuel lines?  I called Sears and they are no help at all.  Very disappointed in them.  Thanks very much for any help.

ANSWER: Hello Paul:

This is a Common Problem with the OHV Engines. Reset the Valves. They are Out of Adjustment and the Compression Release is Not Operating Correctly. I Do Not Use the Setting Called for by the OEMs. I have Found that the Following Works Best. Remove the Valve Cover (on the Dead Cylinder for Twin Cylinder Engines). Set the Cylinder you are Setting the Valves on to Top Dead Center (Both Rocker Arms will have Play in them when the Engine is at TDC) When Setting the Valve Clearance. Now Loosen the Valve Adjuster Locks and Set the Intake Valve Clearance to .004in -.006in and the Exhaust to .008in - .010in. I have had Better Performance Out of the Mowers and Less Burnt Valves Using these Settings. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 9pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.

Respectfully

John

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: John,

I really appreciate the quick response.  I went out and purchased a feeler gauge to adjust valves but I'm ashamed to admit that I have no idea where to start.  Could you possibly provide simple instructions on how to adjust the valves in laymen terms?  I've never attempted this before and I want to make sure I don't cause more damage.

I spoke to a Briggs and Stratton tech and he tried to explain each step but he was way over my head.  He suggested that I purchase the repair manual for my engine.  I'm hoping that I can do it on my own.

BTW---the Engine No. is 31P 777 034 8E1

Thanks a million, John.  You seem like a great teacher.  It's no wonder you're experience such success in your field.

Many thanks,

Paul
ANSWER: Hello Again Paul:

Thanks for the Good Words. Hope I can Explain this Correctly. LOL. You can View a Breakdown/IPL of this Engine at this Site Addy, http://www.smallenginepartswarehouse.com/parts.asp and Select the Shop Online Parts Look Up. Then Select the Model Tab. Then Select the OEM and Enter the Model and Type Numbers. Then Double Click on the Model in the Results Area. Now you can Select the Section of the Engine you Wish to View. Select the Cylinder Head, Gasket Set, Intake Manifold, Lubrication, Valves File. I will Use this for Reference. Remove the Valve Cover (#1023). Set the Cylinder you are Setting the Valves on to Top Dead Center (Both Rocker Arms will have Play in them when the Engine is at TDC) When Setting the Valve Clearance. Now Loosen the Valve Adjuster Locks (#192) and Set the Intake Valve Clearance to .004in -.006in and the Exhaust to .008in - .010in.. Slide the .004in Gauge Between the Intake Valve Top and the Rocker Arm. Adjust the Rocker so the Gauge has a Slight Amount of Pressure on it and you can Remove and Re-insert the Gauge Between the Rocker Arm and the Valve Top. Holding the Adjuster, Tighten the Lock. With the Lock Tight, Check the Clearance. If the Gauge Slides Snug Between the Rocker Arm and the Valve Top, then The Adjustment. If the Gauge Slides too Easily (not more then .006in Gauge) or Will Not Go Between the Valve Top and Rocker Arm, then Do the Valve Again Until the you Get the Snug Fit you Require. I Usually Remove the Adjuster Lock Completely and Apply a Small Amount of Blue Thread Locker to the Lock before Locking the Adjuster. This Helps Prevent the Lock from Loosening During Engine Operation. Now Do the Exhaust Valve the Same Way, Using the Exhaust Valve Clearances I Provided. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: WOW!  Awesome reference John.  I knew there had to be more info on the web.  I'll give it my best shot on Monday.  

A couple of questions, where do I get Blue Thread Locker?  Also, when I'm ready to slide the gauge and then adjust, is it pretty simple or are there some tricks to the process?  I think I can picture it in my mind a bit.

I printed the actual diagram and your instructions so that I'll have everything close to the mower.  Pray that I don't burn up in this 100+ weather here in hot Houston.

Once again, you're the best on the web!  I've tried everywhere else.  I'll update you when job is completed.

Many thanks!

Paul
ANSWER: Hi Paul:

The Thread Locker is Available at your Local Automotive Parts Retailer. The Valve Adjustment is Simple and there are Not Any Tricks Required. Your Main Concern is Making Sure the Engine is at Top Dead Center on the Compression Stroke. I Use a Short Piece of Wire to Feel the Piston through the Spark Plug Hole and can Tell when the Piston is TDC. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Till Next Time. May All Your Mechanical Problems be SMALL ONES and May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks Again.

Best Wishes and Good Luck

Respectfully

John

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks again John.  I'll pick up the thread locker today.  The engine at TDC sounds tricky.  Does it make a loud click?  What do I move to get the piston at TDC?  Sorry, as you can tell, a bit nervous....but I'll persevere!!!

Big thanks,

Paul

Answer
Hi Paul:

You will be Turning the Flywheel which Turns the Crankshaft. The Click or Snap you May hear is the Compression Release. If you Watch the Valves while you are Turning the Flywheel; you will See the Valve (Usually the Exhaust) Open a Small Amount and then Snap Shut. From this Point you will Turn the Flywheel Approximately 10 to 15 Degrees More and be at TDC. No Worries. Be Sure to have the Spark Plug Removed During the Complete Process. Hope this Helps. Keep me Updated, Please. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John