QuestionQUESTION: Hi Paul,
Bought a 2nd hand zero turn mower (150 hrs) and it seemed to run well, but have started having trouble with lack of power. I have recently changed the in-line fuel filter as old one choked with debris, drained tanks, cleaned carb (with aerosol CRC through all galleries) this was also full of debris so must also have passed through 'mikuni' pulse fuel pump, checked fuel shut off solenoid is ok, compression measures 75 & 82 psi (online manual says 57 psi min), checked and reset valve clearances to .003" (1 exhaust was .010") changed spark plugs (running 1 rating cooler than recommended and checked gaps), checked spark and timing (flywheel key ok) and cleaned surfaces and reset gaps. It is certainly running better since cleaning carb out, but the new in-line fuel filter will not fill with fuel, the pump delivers fuel ok (I do not know how much or what pressure it should though) when piped to a jar. All this air in the line is not right is it? Is the pulse pump full of debris or damaged? It is a sealed unit. The engine now only lacks power under load. Any opinion gratefully accepted.
Adrian
ANSWER: A lot of unique problems with this motor. First thing to check is whether you needed an internally or externally vented air cleaner. It will be printed on top of the filter what kind it is. If you have a yellowish colored hose coming of the carb down to the governor bracket you need an externally vented filter. No hose, internal.
Probably not your problem. This engine is so bad about blowing intake manifold gaskets that in my shop we replace them every time we clean the carb. EVERY TIME.
Sounds like the problem to me.
FYI the fuel filter will often be nearly empty. It's a pressure/vacuum/air density/ thing. If you want to have a expert answer on that one you will have to ask a physicist
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QUESTION: Thanks for your thoughts.
Could you elaborate on "check vented air cleaner", it is external. Do you mean the element for air intake on carb?
I checked the intake gaskets. They seemed ok. Made new ones anyway to be sure.
Took carb apart again since it was off. Noticed I had 2 different size main jets #136 & #140, and yes I had replaced them in the wrong sides when I cleaned it first time (whoops). I have corrected this now.
Anyway all back together and trialled. Another pick up in performance but unfortunately still lacking in power and hesitates on acceleration (no load).
Could you think of anything else to try? Perhaps spark is breaking down under compression?
I manually filled the inline fuel filter with fuel, then replaced it inline. It is still full after trial run. Could you recommend a good physicist? A bright spark under pressure (compression) could be just what the Dr. ordered.
Any further thoughts would be great.
Adrian
ANSWER: Your air cleaner should say "externally vented" on the top.
The reversed jets will definitely cause problems. This engine has "rebound ignition" more physicist crap. That's why it has different size jets.
A coil breaking down is definitely a possibility. While the engine is running pull 1 spark plug wire off. See what happens. The cylinder that takes a dump when the wire is pulled will show you the bad jug.
I'm telling you right now this engine is the hardest engine out there to troubleshoot.
It very commonly sticks valves which displace valve guides. It is very prone to overheating and "hot spots". It dumps coils all the time.
Wish I could be more help but even Kawasaki can't get this engine right.
Kawasaki builds the best bullets out there. Don't give up.
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QUESTION: Just to clarify - the "yellowish colored hose coming of the carb down to the governor bracket you need an externally vented filter." - the hose terminates open to air (not cut clean either), should it have a filter on it? Should I be able to blow or suck through it? I cannot. The air element for carb throat only has parts number.
Coils are fine. Both cylinders ran the same.
Rechecked valves, they seem fine also.
The motor is getting worse since putting jets in correct order , dies easier then surges after <idle:wide open:idle>, but definitely runs smoother with 3/4 choke on
Any more thoughts? [Or shall we just start a witch hunt against physicists? 'where's my fork']
ANSWER: Here we go. This is a lot of info coming at you very Quick.
You have an external carb and the filter should be 11013-7024.
The jets should be 136 on the left and 140 on the right.
The boys at Kawasaki say they have a vent problem on this carb. Air turbulence from the flywheel fan is causing the incorrect atmospheric pressure at the end of the vent hose. !#@$#%$#^&%*physicists.
You need to replace the existing vent hose with a new hose 18"+ long. route the hose where ever you can and get it out of the fans down flow. Watch out for the exhaust header.
Next it sounds like you might want to check the carb again. The problem sounds like the pilot jets are clogged. The pilot jets are the jets that go into the carb when you remove the float bowl. Not the jets behind the bolts in the bowl. Make sure they are good and clean. The higher number jet goes on the lower number main jet side. Vice versa on the other side. Small main big pilot, big main, small pilot.
WOW!!!! info overload.
FYI.... Don't go to a cooler plug go hotter. 2 steps would be best. DO NOT USE A CHAMPION. Run NGKs the engine prefers them.
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QUESTION: The numbers on the filter are: 11029-7002 & 622242. As this filter is different, will it cause the engine to run rich or lean, or is it of little consequence?
I replaced main jets in correct order last answer [thank you], but it didn't occur to me that the pilot jets (#44 & # 46) were different also - and yes I had them reversed as well! [thanks again]
Sprayed CRC 5.56 through galleries again also since it was apart just to be certain.
I have also replaced vent tube with a 24" length and rerouted it. Will different lengths of tube cause the engine to run rich or lean or just more reliably?
If I replaced spark plugs with plugs 2 ratings hotter than recommended won't the engine run hotter also, as cooler rated plugs remove more heat, or will it run better for it?
Sorry about the inquisition.
Anyway, went for a trial run and to my delight I ended up mowing the hay paddock out front. Still a little lean (under powered) I think, but it was a bit of a hay paddock. And still a little hesitant when opening her up, but a vast improvement. Thank you Paul the Truthmeister Clouse. If I had a Tank with problems I would bring it to you. Hell, if I had a Tank...Hmmm
ANSWER: The vent hose length will not matter as long as it is out of the fans air flow.
Now for a little spark plug education.
Hotter plugs do not effect the temperature of the engine. Heat range only effects how hot the plug itself gets. The spark is always the same temperature ( hotter than hell) the hotter plug retains more heat so it will more readily burn off the carbon on the plug. It will not effect the engine temp. In new mowers it would be a NGK BPR2ES. Stock plug on your unit would probably have been a 4 or 5.
Your air filter MUST BE 11013-7024. You currently have an internal vented filter. The paper in your filter is much denser (an EPA thing) causing the engine to think the choke is partially on.
Replace the filter and let her rip. We got this problem whipped.
HMMMM? If I had a tank????? Lowe's, BOOM! Depot, BOOM! New York Yankees, BOOM! BOOM!, they'd get 2 rounds. We won't even talk about what we'd do to the Oakland Raiders.
After all I repair the equipment for the K.C. Chiefs.
When we play the Raiders we don't use a tank. We use a Larry Johnson.
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QUESTION: INCOMING!!! BOOM..BOOM....BOOM..CABOOM. What the..?! It's the Truthmeister in a Tank!
You haven't considered the champion factory. If you hit that there would be a nice spark-ler effect <<dead champions all over the place>>
Me, I'm a Kiwi, and a fledgling property developer (hence the mower): Local council regulations, BOOM! Interest rates, BOOM! Resource consents, BOOM! But most of all I like my motors to run well and last. Physicists, boom..boom..boom....CABOOOOMM!! (make it hurt a little first)
I would just like to say thank you for your obviously sound knowledge and patience. THANK YOU. THIS IS A GREAT SERVICE YOU ARE PERFORMING! <I'm off to rate you now - highly I might add>
Adrian
ANSWER: Well "Kiwi" let me tell you about Larry Johnson, The Kansas City Chiefs and the Oakland Raiders.
The "Chiefs" are "The All Blacks". The "Raiders" are the "Kangaroo's"
Larry Johnson would be Andrew Mehrtens.
See, "the Truthmeister" knows all.
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QUESTION: Bloody hell, Truth! I'm impressed! And you're a bit of a dag I reckon.
Though you have the codes mixed up. The All Blacks (NZ) vs the Wallabies (AUS) = rugby union. The Kiwis (NZ) vs the Kangaroos (AUS) = rugby league. Mehrts did indeed play for the All Blacks. But I get your point, Kansas has a great rival in Oakland over the border, just as New Zealand has with Australia across the ditch (Tasman sea).
I guess if I'm posting on this site it should include a question of a mechanical nature? SO.. to avoid other posters from throwing a wobbly or getting their knickers in a twist: do you have experience with chain and sprocket tuning - pros and cons of different combinations? I have a Jonsered 2095 turbo with the muffler opened up a little [don't tell the EPA]. Stock its peak loaded output is at 8.200rpm (designed as a mill saw). I currently have an 8 tooth .375" pitch .058" gauge rim sprocket driving a 22" sandvik sprocket nose bar [which I am happy with], and would like to get a longer bar for reach, slab milling, and/or the bigger jobs where I cannot come in from both sides with the 22" bar. There is a variety of hard and soft wood around so the longer bar combo must be versatile and still have enough power. I was thinking a 44" bar (possibly with roller nose, if not sprocket nose), full skip chisel chain, driven by a 7 tooth .375" pitch .058" gauge rim sprocket. This has a narrower kerf than .404" and although .404" has a larger radius it also has fewer teeth (larger pitch), but when this is taken into account I think there is still more power (lower gearing) with .375" pitch combo, and less wieght in the chain.
Is this up your alley?
Answer Here's my choice.
Run the 42" bar with a 7 tooth sprocket. Run 135 links of Oregons new 3/8 75lgx on a powergaurd bar. This bar is a sprocket nose and has both lubri dam and lubri jet oiling. For the ultimate in advise drop this guy an email. gporegon@bigpond.com
Is the "Truthmeister" unbelievable or what!!!!
I have raced a saw or two in my life. The grind is really the most important thing. Drop your rakers an extra 0.010 and this combo will throw massive chips.
