Question-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
I have a 17.5 OHV Murray riding lawnmower. It is about 3-4 years
old. I put it away in the fall. In December I tried to crank it. It
wouldn't. Cranking problems have been due to battery or
connections. I charged the battery and checked the connections.
No start. In the spring I tried a new battery. No start. I changed the
spark plug. No start. The solenoid clicks. The starter and the
flywheel move just a little. I pulled out the spark plug and
reconnected the lead. I see no spark. My local shop told me to take
a 10 mm socket wrench and tighten the valves. I did this about half
a turn. Still, no start. What do you think the problem is?
Answer -
Hi Terry,
Let's deal with one problem at a time. You need spark for the engine
to run and the engine needs to crank over at good speed for spark.
Will it crank and spark with the spark plug removed?
Michael
The starter and fly wheel only move a little(say half an inch).
AnswerHi Terry,
It may be the solenoid or starter. Follow my No Crank proceedure below.
Let me know what you find.
Michael
I would check the starter first. Jump the positive battery terminal to the starter and it should crank over. If not, jump from a battery that you know is good, from a car. If still nothing, the starter is bad. If good, then you will need to trace the entire circuit from the starter to the battery. The solenoid, switches the battery power to the starter, when power from the key switch is sent to the small terminal on the solenoid. To test the solenoid, first make sure that you have power at its large terminal which comes from the battery. Then jump power from that terminal or the battery positive post, to its small terminal. You should hear a click and the other large terminal that feeds the starter should be energized. If not, then the solenoid is bad. If good, then continue tracing the power through the key switch to the battery until you find the break in the power path. All testing can be done with a 12 volt light or a voltmeter. Most equipment has safety switches in the seat and on the blade engagement lever. Check them by temporarily bypassing with a small jumper wire.
