Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): Craftsman Riding Mower - No click, craftsman riding mower, cold crank

Question
Hello Mike,

boy you don't know how frustrated I am!  I have an older (I'd say late 80s/early 90s) Craftsman Riding Mower 10hp / 30", Model No. 502.254190.  Started well last season despite an old battery that lost charge rather quickly.  This year I wanted to replace the battery and when I did (same battery just a bit higher cold crank amps), I heard the solenoid click once, nothing else.  After that, dead silence, not even the "click" anymore.  Let me quickly run down what I've done so far:

- Battery: replaced, brand new, including main cables
- Solenoid: replaced, brand new
- Starter Switch, replaced, brand new
- Redundant safety switches (saddle, brake pedal and blade engagement): checked out okay (continuity when enganged)
- Starter: brought to local auto shop, they hooked it up, ran no problem
- Wiring harness: replaced, brand new
- all contacts/terminals/ground: clean

Mike, I bet you know how frustrating this is... all perfect connections to new components, yet not even a "click" out of the solenoid.  When today I replaced the wiring harness as my last resort (and of course to no avail), I wanted to chuck the good piece.

What could possibly be wrong with this thing?  Any suggestions that you might have would be wonderful.

Thanks in advance and best regards from Connecticut,

Carsten M.


Answer
Hi Carsten,

It sure is frustrating.  It looks like you have done everything that is possible.  Go through my "No crank" proceedure below.  I know you have done most, if not all of it.  Maybe something will come to mind.  There must be just one little thing that is not right.

Let me know,
Michael
In CT too.


I would check the starter first.  Jump the positive battery terminal to the starter and it should crank over.  If not, the starter is bad.  If good, then you will need to trace the entire circuit from the starter to the battery.  The solenoid, switches the battery power to the starter, when power from the key switch is sent to the small terminal on the solenoid. To test the solenoid, first make sure that you have power at its large terminal which comes from the battery. Then jump power from that terminal or the battery positive post, to its small terminal. You should hear a click and the other large terminal that feeds the starter should be energized. If not, then the solenoid is bad. If good, then continue tracing the power through the key switch to the battery until you find the break in the power path.   All testing can be done with a 12 volt light or a voltmeter.  Most equipment has safety switches in  the seat and on the blade engagement lever. Check them by temporarily bypassing with a small jumper wire.