QuestionQUESTION: I just got through installing a new ignition switch, key lock cylinder, turn signal switch, and windsheild washer switch in my 1990 Chevy Silverado truck with tilt steering. When I turned the key to the start position, the engine started but the key would not return to the on position, as if the the cylinder was binding or the ignition switch actuatingrod was binding. I tried looking at the videos for making a key lock cylinder repair, but I can't view them on my computer for some reason. My repair manual said to put the key lock cylinder and ignition switch in the lock position, but some procedure on the internet say to put the key lock cylinder in the "on" position, while extracting the key buzzer contacts. What is the correct procedure and do you have any ideas on how to correct the key lock cylinder? Thanks!
ANSWER: Hello Art:
The position the lock cylinder is installed is really of no consequence...that is to say it doesn't matter which position you install it, this design aligns itself. Regarding the key buzzer, I always install it after the lock and screw are in place. So, getting to your real concern, the binding lock cylinder;
Most of the time, either one of three things occur that cause this.
1) You said you installed anew ignition switch as well as a new lock cylinder. If that is true, then you had the switch off the tube on the bottom under the dash. Most often, when you bolted it back on, the new switch bracket is binding the rod against the tube, not allowing it to slide freely, or
2) The plastic lock housing with the 3-30 torx bolts (the housing the lock cylinder slide into) is torqued and causing the lock cylinder to mis-align. Remove the turn signal switch and loosen very slightly the 3 bolts that hold the housing cover the the housing. Then, before assembling it, see if your problem is corrected. If so, then gently snug each bolt, one by one until the problem reoccurs and you have identified the culprit. These bolts don't need to be real tight, they're not going anywhere or cause any major problem by being merely snug.
3)a bad lock cylinder
I hope this helps you
Good luck
Doug
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QUESTION: In trying to figure out what was causing the binding, I removed the ignition switch. After doing so, the lock cylinder turn much easier. What is the fix for # 1 in your answer and is it advisable to install washers under the ignition switch mounting plate in order to gain more clearance for the actuating rod? Also, my next job is to fix the loose steering column ( I was finally able to access your video's for this procedure )in the same vehicle. There is a procedure on line that suggests making this procedure easier by taking the column down to the point of where two of the four bolts are accessable and then Locktite/tightening those down, thereby not having to remove the two 3/8" diameter pins. Do you recommend doing this? By the way, the special tool for removing the two pins is available from the Harbor freight Tools website for a mere $1.56. Thanks Again!
GM switch
ANSWER: Hey Art:
You can simply bend the switch on the bracket to allow more clearance under it. It has quite a large piece of bent rod that actually does the 'switching', so you can bend, flex and adjust it as needed.
Regarding the tightening of 2/4 bolts. If you only tighten the lower 2, you will only achieve 1/3 success in your procedure. the upper bolts are the ones that get stretched the most and therefore are the most loose. You can do it, but you won't be happy with the result vs. the effort. You are so close, you should finish it.
Doug
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QUESTION: Doug,
After bending the switch, I finally got the key to turn without binding. Now I have found that my brake lights do not work(they may not have not been working prior to the steering column parts replacement; just not sure)as well as my right hand turn signal. I have replaced the brake light switch, checked the stop light fuse, confirmed continuity on all rear bulbs(for both filaments), confirmed a good ground, and confirmed no power at the harness wire that goes to the right hand turn signal bulbs. The right hand turn signal stopped working about a week after I replaced the steering column parts which included a new turn signal switch. I have als noticed that after pushing in on the hazard flasher switch, it is very difficult to pull it out to the off position. according to the wiring diagram, the brake light circuit passes through the turn signal and hazard flasher switches. Do you think it's a defective turn signal switch or a defective brake light switch and is it possible to test new switches themselves, before going to the trouble of replacing them?
AnswerWelcome back Art:
I would check the connection at the turn signal harness near the ignition switch you just adjusted. It sounds like the connector is not snapped in all the way, leaving some of the wires disconnected.
If one side (the right side) stopped working previously, I would suspect a bulb or socket on that side.
Using a test light, check for current on both sides of the stop light switch when the pedal is pressed. If you have current, then check to see if the white wire on the turn signal connector at the base of the column get power also when you step on the brake. If you do not have power at the white wire, then it's not the turn signal switch. The white wire is what feeds the turn signals when the brake is depressed.
If it lights up, then you need to check the Dk Green wire or the Yellow wire to see if they get hot also when the brake is pressed. Those are the turn signal wires going back to the lights. If they light up, the the problem is behind you somewhere in the truck. If they do not light up, it's a bad turn signal switch.
The 4-ways are often difficult to release on a new switch, but overall, if it's too hard, then you may have the switch in crooked causing all the problems you are facing.
Doug
