QuestionQUESTION: i want to take my camper to the shore with my escape. it's a v6, all wheel, automatic. is this do-able? if...i exceed the weight that's recommended...am i going to kill my car? it does have the right braking system on it.
ANSWER: Edmunds.com lists towing capacity of a 2006 Escape automatic 2WD at 3500 pounds, that would cover a lot of small campers, but nothing really big. The AWD version might have a slightly lower capacity.
Get the real weight of your camper and add in anything you might put inside it like clothes, water, food, toys, etc. Weigh everything, stuff can add up quickly.
If you exceed the limits, you will severely shorten the life of the transmission if nothing else. Of course ANY towing will shorten transmission life some. but staying well within the limits will mean it will have less of an effect. If your car does not have a transmission cooler, I recommend you add one. Switch to synthetic transmission fluid for an extra margin of safety.
The vehicle brakes aren't as important as any brakes that might be on the trailer. if the trailer has electric brakes, be sure to add a controler and hook it up correctly. Read the instructions on how to use it and experiement with it so it works right. You want the trailer brakes to be felt slightly when you apply the vehicle brakes. If you can't feel the trailer brakes at all, you need to turn up the trailer brakes. On the other hand, if you are getting a jerk from the trailer or locking up the trailer wheels, then turn it down. It pays to go to a deserted country road and try a panic stop (work your way up to a full stop slowly bby trying more aggressive stops till you get to a near full panic stop. See how it behaves.
Don
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QUESTION: our mechanic suggests no trans cooler but to watch the car guage...any idea why? my husband also wants to know how to make the front of the trailer come 'down'...i don't know if we need that or if he's just thinking ahead?
weigh everything! including people?
AnswerThe cars temperature gauge will give you no idea if your transmission is overheating, your only clue will be if it overflows fluid. This may not happen, and I still don't know what size/weight trailer you plan on hauling, but if you are near the limit, a tranny cooler is always a good idea. Get one with a thermostat so that in winter it doesn't keep the tranny too cool, but heat is the total enemy of your transmission. Most manufacturers recommend hauling any trailer OUT of overdrive, which will cost you a a couple MPG, but will help save your transmission.
The cooler isn't absolutely necessary, but if it is a fairly new vehicle that you plan on keeping, and you will be hauling that trailer a lot, then consider getting it. If installed properly, there is ZERO downside to getting one except the cost. If your vehicle is under warranty, then have the dealer do it and it won't effect your warranty.
As for the front of the trailer coming down, I assume that the hitch puts the trailer in a nose up attitude. It is always best to have the trailer level or slightly nose down, that way things don't roll backwards in it, also, it won't stick up in the airflow as much.
To lower the trailer, you need to get a hitch that is lower. A receiver style hitch has a removeable ball mount that goes in a square socket that is on the hitch on the car. A trailer accessory/sales dealer ship can fix you up with the right hitch that will give you a level trailer. They cost about $30-50 so it isn't a lot to make the setup better. Also you can get these types of hitches and ball mounts at any U-Haul store.
Don't need to weigh people unless they will be in the trailer while you are moving (illegal anyplace I know of in North America). Just add in weight of anything you put inside the trailer when you will be towing it like coolers, luggage, toys, food etc. It can add up to a lot of extra weight.
Don
