QuestionQUESTION: Hello: I have a 1997 Rav4 4 cyl. 2L 4 door by Toyota. I am getting a puff of smoke @ startup only after the vehicle has sat for a day or so.This is a tell tale of seals that are leaky and I would like to change them without the removal of the head. I am seeking the correct tool to do the job as I am told the valve springs are recessed. I have looked at the K/D line and think there might be one there but am not sure. Can you help me with the right one without breaking the bank for a one time use mechanic. If I took this to Toyota they want close to $1000.00 plus taxs.I could put the money into this tool.
Also is there any problems with the cam pulley on this DOHC engine.I have never had one apart so I am a newbie.
What procedure is there for the pulley's after the cam is removed to access the valve springs??
Thanks in advance.
ANSWER: The main thing is that the cylinder you are removing the valve springs from is compressed with air so that the valves don't fall inside the combustion chamber, you will need an air compressor and an air hose that adapts to the spark plug hole to keep pressure in the cylinder while removing the springs and the seals, the springs can be removed by tapping the retainer sharply with an old socket or a piece of pipe, the valve spring keepers tend to fly out so a small magnet put inside the socket helps to catch the them , the KD tool works well to reinstall the spring retainers and valve keepers, I'm assuming you mean the tool that is used to press on the valve spring retainer to lock the keepers on to the valve. This is a difficult and time consuming job. You will also have to remove the upper timing cover to release the tensioner on the timing belt in order to get the cam pulley of at the same time making sure that the engine and the cam timing are at top dead center, there are two cam gears near the center of the cylinder head which have timing marks on them, mark them with paint when the engine is at TDC for reassembly, before removing the cams install a service bolt into the spring loaded cam gear so the gear doesnt loose tension. As I said, time consuming, difficult and you should know what you are doing, that's why they get almost $1,000.
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QUESTION: Thanks for your reply Ted. I am learning this as a challenge and also the right approach as any job that is new.If hastily done will cause severe damage and NO cash saved.I have done the seals on the old V8's years ago with no overhead cam to complicate the job but am aware as you move the compressed air from cyl to cyl. it will usually cause the motor to turn a revolution or so. This is where the timing belt would move and needs support as well as throw off the original setting of where the cams would be set back in,I think.Correct me please if I am wrong. Would you advise me on how to do this?? Here is a link for a tool I was looking at for the seal job and long pliers to grab the seals.http://www.toyotool.com/
I like your idea of a piece of pipe for the initial jolt to break free the keepers and get the little rascals out.
It's the timing of the belt/cams that ARE very important.
Let me know your thoughts on this tool or what else could be used as well as the seal pliars.There is a utube video link there.
Steve
AnswerYes the engine can move when pressurizing the cylinders, the way to avoid thisn is to make sure that the piston is exactly at the top. Even if the engine does move the cam timing can be reset by putting the engine at #1 tdc after the valve seals are replaced.
