Question-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
I've been trying to track down a no-spark condition. All the checks I've done show that the Ignition Control Module is shorted to ground via the white (coil #1 wire), but the replacement unit I got does the same. White wire from Ignition Module to coil is OK.
Findings:
1. HT Coil #15 to #1 terminals reads 1.8 ohms
2. HT Coil HT Lead to either #15 or #1 terminals read 800 ohms (*)
3. Power to Coil #15 when key on, slight voltage rise when cranking.
4. Distributor coil reads 1074 ohms.
5. Green & Brown wires from Distributor to Module plug has continuity and no shorts to ground (I checked from both ends).
6. Black wire at Module plug to ground OK & aluminum Module frame to ground OK.
7. Blue wire to Module has power with key on.
8. No voltage at Coil #1 connection when engine cranking, however there's a momentary dim glow when the key is shut off.
9. Replace Fuel Pump Relay (just to be sure).
(*) Shouldn't there be infinate resistance between the HT Lead terminal and the windings?
Do you know of a way to test the Ignition Control Module (P/N 0 227 100 018) function?
Anyway, suggestions welcome - thanks much!
Paul
Answer -
I would need to see a wiring diagram only thing at home is an 83 which looks close.there should bea anoscillating power at terminal 1 at coil when cranking this opens and closes the coil circuit to discharge the spark.this is controled by the distributor hall switch .there should bea a power ground and oscillating signal from the distributor to the ignition control unit.if there is power and ground and no oscillating signal then hall switch is bad if oscillating from hall switch ,and control unit has power and ground but no oscillating signal out of control unit to coil possible bad harness or bad control unit.this year had bad harnesses that the insulation was very poor on and would fall off when it got old.check harness carefully
Regis, is what you call the Hall Switch the same as the coil in the Distributor? I have checked the harness under the front of the engine and the green & brown wires are in tact (good continuity and no shorts to ground). It is starting to look like the Control Unit again.
Do you know of any tests or readings I can take from the control unit itself? Do you think I could simulate the AC signal from the distributor (brown & green wires), and check for an oscillating signal from terminal #1 at the coil? If so, do you have any idea what frequency and strength AC current I'd need?
I do have a 1980 schematic I can email, but I'll have to scan it to PDF tomorrow. Thanks again,
Paul
Answersorry for late answer site was down.yes the hall switch is the part in the distributor.no test I know of for the control unit. the oscillating signal comes from the distributor then to the control unit,through the control unit then to the coil.so if it is mising from the distributor then I would say distributor is bad.if it comes out dist. and can be monitored coming to the control unit and not to the coil then I would say bad control unit.
