Cadillac: 1994 cadillac Concures, rotters, brake pads


Question
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Followup To
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Followup To
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At 60 miles an hour, when the brakes are put on it rumbles and rattles the car. I have turned and replaced the rotters which did not help.
Answer -
Did you do the machining of the rotors your self or did you have a repair facility do it.

How many rotors did you machine ?.

Are you ABSOLUTELY POSITIVE that the rotors were machined CORRECTLY.

Did you replace the brake pads as well ?.

I need more information.

Normally you should install new brake pads when you have the rotors machined.

Personally, I buy NEW rotors and NEW brake pads as they are not that expensive.
I had the new rotors on the back wheels turned to make sure they were true and I had new brake pads put on by a good garage. The front brakes I put one new rotor and turned the other and put new brakes pads on. I got this car when it had 62000 kilometers on it and now it has 152000 kilometers and it always rattled some but latly it has got worse. I have had the brakes done before,but the last work was just done. Thanks for the help,by the way the G.M. dealer do'nt know what it wrong with it eather.    autohelp
Answer -
I wish I had access to the vehicle with the ability to drive it, I could then tell you what the problem is.

Since this is most impossible, Here are some probabilities:

Before I list the possibilities, WHY did you take it in for brake work and did it have this problem prior to the brake work ?.


1. Loose steering components.

2. Faulty machining of the rotors by the machine at the facility, Should have been DOUBLE CHECKED by the person who machined the rotors.

3. Possible faulty wheel bearing(s).

4. Possible faulty NEW rotor. Just because it is NEW does NOT mean it is 100% GOOD.

5. Faulty brake pad(s).

6. Rare, but possible faulty struts/shocks.


I did notice that you said you installed a NEW rotor on one side and MACHINED the original ROTOR on the opposite side. This is a NO-NO and should NEVER be done as it usually causes problems.

Like I said before I ALWAYS replace the rotors and brake pads with NEW parts, I NEVER machine rotors as they are NOT that expensive to replace.


Here is a test that you can do to narrow down your problem to either being in the FRONT end or the BACK end.

While driving down the road at about 55 mph, assuming your vehicle has the automatic parking brake release system of which disengages the parking brakke when the engine is started and put into reverse or drive, While driving at 55 mph apply the parking brake with your left foot and push it all the way down as hard as you can and see if you get the vibration. Normally the parking brake controls the REAR brakes.

If you feel NO vibration when applying the parking brake your problem is in the front end. If you DO feel the vibration when applying the parking brake, the problem is in the raer brakes. JUST BE CAREFUL doing this procedure.

let me know.

I do not have a staff of people helping me answer your questions, I do it all by my self, Therefore, Due to being retired and a 15 year old computer on a dial-up connection, I do my best to respond to questions within 3 to 4 hours due to the volume of questions I receive on a daily basis. If you require a faster response you can e-mail me directly at the below e-mail address as I check it more frequently.:

meperganfortis@msn.com

When you are asked to RATE THIS EXPERT the site only allows for about 10 (TEN) words. Therefore,  I never get to read your full response. You can e-mail me directly at the above said personal e-mail site. But make sure that you RATE ME before e-mailing me directly if you so desire to do so.

Please excuse the TYPO's as my computer is so old that it does not even have a spell checker.


Retired in New Mexico
autohelp  I'm retired too, I worked on cars all my life but retired before the ABS brakes came in thank goodnes.One other thing I forgot to tell you is the one back wheel the emergancy brake cable fraed and the break stayed on and it realy got hot,I wonder if it warped the hup. It is viberating in the back wheels. Thanks again for your time and quick service.

Answer
I do believe you diagnosed and found your answer as to a warped hub. I hope you put a NEW rotor and brake pads on this wheel also. You should also check to be sure that after you apply the brake pedal that you can hand turn the rotor so that you are SURE that the caliper is releasing the pressure against the rotor.

ai have also found when this happens is that the rubber brake hose, If applicable to your vehicle, that connects the steel brake line to the rotor tends to disentegrate internally even though the outside of the hose looks perfectly fine.

What happens when they collapse internally is that due to the extreme pressure of the brake fluid being exerted when you apply the brakes the fluid is forved tpast the partial collapse inside and when you release the brake pedal you do NOT have RETURN pressure and the caliper keeps pressure on the pads which cause the brakes to be partially applied thus causing HEAT that warps the rotors the hubs and burns up the lining as well. It can also cause small air bubbles to accumulate in the brake system due to the heat.

I replace all my brake hoses every SECOND or THIRD brake replacemnt.

The ABS brakes work OK, You just have to read and understand the THEORY behind them. Everybody PANICS when something new comes out and forgets to start you diagnostics with the BASICS as you would have 10 years ago. Don't OVERTHINK the system, Use your basic knowledge FIRST.

Let me know.

PLEASE keep your questions on the ALLEXPERTS BOARD because without it, Us volunteers would NOT be needed.

I do not have a staff of people helping me answer your questions, I do it all by my self, Therefore, Due to being retired and a computer on a dial-up connection that is so old it does not even have SPELL CHECKER, So please excuse the TYPO'S.

I do my best to respond to questions within 4 to 5 hours, But  due to the volume of questions I receive on a daily basis I answer them ASAP. If you require a faster response you can e-mail me directly at the below e-mail address as I check it more frequently.:

meperganfortis@msn.com

When you are asked to RATE THIS EXPERT the site only allows for about 10 (TEN) words. Therefore,  I never get to read your full response. You can e-mail me directly at the above said personal e-mail site. But make sure that you RATE ME before e-mailing me directly if you so desire to do so.

Sometimes when you have to replace a part, I will askyou  if I can have the old part, As I rebuild them and sell them for extra income. I will pay the shipping costs as long as it does not exceed $10.00.

Retired in New Mexico and teaching my son to learn the trade.

autohelp