GM-GMC: electrical, auto parts stores, battery cables


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Harry, I have a 1979 GMC K15. 350 engine. new engine 2 mo. ago. battery fully charged. new battery cables. truck is a daily driver. parked truck 2 days ago, no problems. went out to start truck yesterday, got no response. not a sound. lights, radio, heater fan, etc. all work fine. turn thr key to start and nothing. a mechanic told me it might be the starter relay. I have checked Chilton and can find no mention or location of a starter relay on this truck. any suggestions.  Dave
Answer -
Dave,

The starter relay (solenoid) is mounted on top of the starter.  The starter has to be removed to access the solenoid.

Your problem could also be a defective ignition switch, which is located on top of the steering column where the column meets the firewall.

Do your headlights dim when you try to crank the engine?  If not, disconnect the battery, then remove the starter assembly and have it tested (which most auto parts stores will do for free).  If the starter tests good, consider replacing the ignition switch.          Harry, thanx for your immediate response. the solenoid and starter were tested yesterday and cheked fine. believe it or not, my chilton doesn't give instructions on the removal of the ignition switch.. can you give me directions on removal.. thanx, Dave
Answer -
Dave,

Disconnect the battery before proceeding:

You have to gain access to the two studs, on either side of the steering column near the dashboard, remove the nuts, and drop the column down to gain access to the switch.  This usually involes removing the trim from under the steering column and may require removal of ductwork.

The steering column will drop down without hurting anything, but do not allow it to strain any wiring.  Follow the metal rod down the top of the column and you will find the switch.

The switch is held in place by two small hex bolts.  Note that there will be provisions for adjusting the switch to the correct position.  The switch may have an instruction sheet for this procedure.  If not, carefully note how the rod moves the switch when you put the key in the cylinder and turn it to "Run" and "Start."  The rod is usually bent 90 degrees, or more, on its end and will only come out of the switch in one of the key cylinder positions.

Remove the old switch and replace with the new one.  Try turning the key cylinder to verify the key positions, especially "Start" which should return to "Run" when you release the key.  Reverse the removal procedure to put everything back as it was.

All of the above assumes that the starter was reinstalled correctly and the wiring to the starter is correct and functional.  Unfortunately, the best test of the ignition switch involves removing the starter, (after taping the large starter battery connection[s]together and keeping them from touching anything else) reconnecting the battery, and checking the small terminal wire (usually purple in color) for +12V with the key held in the "Start" position.  The small terminal wire comes from the ignition switch and applies power to the solenoid to cause it engage the starter.

The job is not bad as long as you pay attention to what you are doing.  Be careful with the plastic clips that hold the wiring harness to the ignition switch.  They will likely be brittle after 25 years of service.  You can also buy the ignition switch before replacing the old one and familiarize yourself with how it looks, how it is mounted and where the rod from the key cylinder fits into it.          Harry, I thank you again for your immediate reply. put new starter switch in yesterday and once again, I am at a loss. still nothing when moving switch to start position. I still have to re-adjust the column so the shifter will work properly. when I knocked off last night it was hanging up and not letting me shift unless I wiggled the key switch. Any suggestions? I'm getting frustrated.

Answer
Dave,

There is also the neutral start safety switch which is located down by the ignition switch.  It can fail, but it can also be knocked out of adjustment.  You may to experiment with it to get the vehicle to crank.

In addition, the shift linkage may be out of adjustment on your vehicle.  That basically requires you to put the vehicle in Park and adjust the linkage at the transmission to agree with the shifter indicator.  Then check the other positions to ensure that the shifter indicator is showing the correct gear selection.

Lastly, you might have an internal problem with the steering column.  I had to replace both columns on my 1983 G-20 and 1984 K-2500 because they were worn out.

You might be able to find a shop manual at a library and copy the various adjustment procedures to assist you with the repairs.