Suzuki: 88 suzuki samurai getting better but still not good, suzuki samurai jx, rotor coil


Question
QUESTION: I recently purchased a 1988 Suzuki Samurai jx with the origional engine in it. The guy I bought it from had left it sitting in his driveway for 2 years but started it every once in a while. It starts right up and idles fine warms up to nearly oprating temp.
but when I step on the gas no power. I have replaced the fuel filter,fuel pump,distributor cap and rotor, coil. I have had it running at higher rpms and even drivin it for about 30 meters then it dies lacking gas I think.I can put my hand over the carb with the air cleaner cover off and fully choke off the carb for a couple of seconds and then when I take my hand away I get power temporarily. I have discovered that there is no fuel coming out of the pump discharge nozzle. Is it possible to repair or clean the accelerator pump without tearing the carb appart? Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

ANSWER: Sounds like a carb overhaul is indicated.  You wouldn't catch me failing to do a complete o/haul given the symptoms.

The accelerator pump only affects the first second or two after throttle opening.  All the rest of the time is a main jet issue..

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QUESTION: Is there a carb rebuild kit available and where would I get that? A carb rebuild is a last resort is there any other possible solutions or easy out type tests to try? I am going to blow out the fuel lines and see if the pickup in the tank is blocked.I tapped the carb casing just above the float and it seemed to run better I think maybe fuel pressure is an issue could this be correct? Can the float be inoperable due to not enough pressure
I have had the engine running under load up to 4000 rpm then it started to die again. definately fuel I think. does the float need a certain amount of pressure to work? Also can the ECM work and then die , as in either it works or doesn't work.I found some wires close to the battery that had the origional factory tape worn off because the battery was loose. Can a slight amount of corrosion there make a difference? An old guy down the road that has had lots of zukis told me to see what kind of pressure the pump has by disconnecting the fuel line at the carb and holding your finger over the end he said you can't hold back the pressure if it is operational. How much pressure does the float chamber need? The manual shows carb teardown by removing the carb completely, can I leave the carb in place and just remove the top to check the float chamber? I don't have a indoor shop so I am working outside and it snowed today. Thats why I don't want to go whole hog on the carb rebuild yet. working under a tarp.

Answer
They have been avaliable in the past from hawksuzuki.com.
You can test pressure with a gauge, and delivery by just cranking with the fuel line off the carb, even if it doesn't run.

The float works like in a toilet tank. Lack of pressure would cause no flow, but the float would still drop, and the needle valve would still open.

Yeah, you can get the top off, and checj the needle, seat, and float that way.  You can even see the main jets at the bottom of the reservoir, and might be able to use air pressure (MODERATE PRESSURE) to blow them out.

Fuel pressure should be 2 or 3 psi minimum.

If you have a restriction at the pickup, you probably will get lousy volume, and pressure after ten seconds of cranking on an open fuel line.