Questioni want to know about different parts of the bikes and their uses.......
can u plz help me out........
thanking u.........
awaitin ur mail.........
AnswerI don't exactly know what you're asking, this question is unbelievably vague, but I'll take a guess.
Take the MSF BRC course. You'll learn everything you need to know in that course. Do not try to learn all this on the street without good instruction.
Below is an excerpt from my new book, "How to Ride a Motorcycle," due out this summer from Motorbooks International. I hope this information answers your questions. Pat
What Does This Lever Do, and Why Would I Want to Squeeze It?
Smart Rider Alert: Do not attempt to operate any of the primary controls with the engine running until you have read this entire chapter and completed the MSF BRC course (see Chapter 4). It's okay to do dry runs in the garage with the bike turned off, but there is absolutely nothing good that can come of doing this without quality supervision. You have been warned.
There are six primary controls on a motorcycle: the clutch lever, front brake lever, handlebars, throttle twistgrip, shift lever, and rear brake lever. These controls make the bike go, stop, and turn. There are a good many secondary controls such as the kill switch, choke, turn signals, headlight switch, horn button, starter button, and kickstart lever. Then there are those “other” secondary controls: your eyes, ears, brain, hands, feet, thumbs, knees, elbows, shoulders, and butt. Motorcyclists use every one of these controls constantly on every ride. Sound complicated? Never fear—you're about to learn the world's coolest juggling act.
Stopping and Going
Your fingers are in charge of the clutch lever (left hand) and front brake lever (right hand), the two most important controls. The clutch makes the bike go; the front brake makes it stop.
Left Hand: Using the Clutch
The clutch controls how much of the engine's power is sent to the rear wheel. Squeezed tightly against the handgrip, 0% of the power will be transmitted to the wheel, equivalent to having the engine off. Released completely, 100% of the engine's power will go to the rear wheel. That means the bike will then do what the engine does. (Once the clutch is fully released, the clutch no longer controls the bike: at that point the bike's forward motion will be turned over completely to the throttle grip.)
Expect the clutch to give you some trouble. It takes awhile to get used to it; every bike's clutch has a slightly different feel. You'll stall the bike—and make the bike lurch forward suddenly—at least a 500 times while you're learning. Don't get frustrated with it, just take your time, focus, and try to get a feel for it before you accidentally let it slip and send you and your bike into the nearest cornfield. And if you made the rookie mistake of buying a 600 cc or bigger sportbike for your first bike, when you head for that cornfield you'll be doing it on the rear wheel!
The first few times you use the clutch lever, ease it out without giving it any gas. The bike will feel lurchy and try to stall because it needs throttle, but you'll get a really good feel for exactly where the friction point (transmission of engine power) is and you'll have more control when it comes time to use both. When the bike lurches or stalls, or if it tries to leap away from you, just squeeze the clutch and try again more smoothly.
The big secret to smooth clutch operation is to take it very, very slowly. As you ease the clutch lever out from the handgrip, the bike will begin to pull you forward. Hold it in place with your feet. Once you have the clutch lever about halfway through its friction zone, the bike will feel like a jittery horse that wants to go Go GO! That's what you want, but don't get excited and pop the clutch and get launched into the bushes. Hold the clutch lever right where it is, but now give it a little gas; ease it out from the grip a tiny bit more and give a little less resistance from your body; a little more throttle, ease it out a little more, and a little less body, and so on until the bike is moving and your feet are off the ground.
The whole process from 0% to 100% should take you at least ten seconds when you're first learning. With a day of practice, you should have it down to about five seconds, and by the time you have about 500 miles under your belt, it should take no more than a few seconds.
Right Hand: Using the Front Brake
On the other side of the handlebars you'll find the front brake lever. It looks just like the clutch lever, and on most bikes, controls 75 percent or more of the bike's stopping power, so get comfortable with it before moving on to any other controls. The front brake works by clamping down on the front wheel to slow the bike. While you're learning, it'll be easy to accidentally clamp down too hard or too fast and stall or destabilize the bike, but there are a couple tricks to keep you smooth.
In normal stopping situations, squeeze the brake the same way you'd give a light, firm handshake—enough to introduce yourself, but not so much that you could crush a steel can or seem, well, too eager to introduce yourself. The front brake requires only a light touch and some finesse, and riders rarely need to squeeze the lever more than halfway in normal situations. The other key to mastering the front brake is to start with a light touch and squeeze progressively harder—don't “grab” too quickly. You can't go from 0% to 100% (like the clutch) with one squeeze, you need to work your way up, adding pressure as you go: 0%, 10%, 30%, and 50% (halfway) in normal situations.
Braking Effort
Normal stopping situations 0, 10, 30, 50, 10
Emergency stopping situation 0, 10, 40, 80, 90, 100, 50, 10
Normal slowing situation 0, 10, 20, 30, 10, 0
Emergency slowing situation 0, 10, 30, 60, 30, 10
These percentages are only guidelines for mental practice: every bike and every actual stop will be a little different. Notice that in all cases, braking starts at 10% power––don't grab too quickly. In normal cases it does not go above 50%. Also note that braking pressure always builds up then backs off. Practice these four situations in your garage with the bike turned off. Get a feel for the brake lever and visualize the situations and pressures you'll need to do them smoothly.
Turning
The handlebars are used to lean the bike and to point it in the direction you want to go. Don't hang on to the bike and the bars with a death grip by tensing up your hands, arms, and shoulders. Hold the handlebars lightly—again, like a light handshake. Use the handlebars to guide the bike, not to keep yourself from falling off. (See “proper posture” later in this chapter.)
One of the wonderful mysteries of motorcycling is countersteering. Up to four or five mph your motorcycle will feel like a bicycle, but after that something magical happens: it feels like something else––a motorcycle!
At very slow speeds, you use the handlebars to point the front tire in the direction you want to go. If you want the bike to go right, you point the tire to the right and away you go. If you want to go left, it's the same deal: point it and shoot.
However, once you get into higher speeds (more than 5 mph or so) the bike needs to be leaned before it can be turned. (This is the case with bicycles too, but because they weigh less than one-tenth of a motorcycle it's not as noticeable.) To lean the motorcycle, turn the handlebars and point the tire in the opposite direction you want to go. That is, if you want the bike to go right, you have to first point the tire left by pressing forward on the right handgrip—this leans the bike to the right and the tire then points naturally into the turn. If you want to go left, turn the handlebars and tire to the right first by pressing forward on the left handgrip to lean the bike, then as the bike leans over to the left the handlebars and tire will point left and the bike will go left.
This sounds a lot more complicated than it really is, so it's best to just not think about it. On a motorcycle, you're rarely going less than 5 mph, so when you want to turn, always use countersteering to turn the bike: to go right, turn left, lean right, and go right. To go left, turn right, lean left, and go left. Once you've tried this a couple times it will all make sense.
Controlling Your Speed
Okay, you're able to go, stop, and turn using the clutch, front brake, and handlebars. Now it's time to dig into the finer points of controlling the bike. First we'll start with throttle management.
You're on a Roll Now
The throttle mechanism is the right handgrip itself and works just like the gas pedal of a car—except you're also using that hand to stop help steer the bike. To give the bike more gas and make it go faster, you rotate the grip towards you: this is rolling it on. To give the bike less gas and slow it down, turn the grip away from you: this is rolling it off. This is also sometimes referred to as opening (rolling it on) and closing (rolling it off) the throttle.
The resting position for the throttle is off—a spring keeps it rolled completely closed. When you first use the throttle grip, you'll only be able to move it one direction: towards you. When you let go of the throttle grip, the spring automatically snaps the throttle closed.
Being located very close to the front brake makes it tough to use the front brake and the throttle at the same time. Just as you learned in driver's ed to use the same foot for both gas pedal and brake, the right hand either uses the throttle or the brake on a motorcycle—not both at once.
The Subtler Speed Controls: Shifting and Using the Rear Brake
The clutch, front brake, throttle and handlebars do almost everything you could ever want to do on a motorcycle: stop, go, and turn. But what if you want to make finer adjustments, such as managing engine speed or increasing your braking effectiveness? A bike wouldn't last long driven every day in first gear only. And there's a wheel and tire on the back of the bike that can be employed to help stop the bike—or keep it stationary while you're using your hands to work the throttle and clutch.
The Shift Lever
Probably the most feared and hardest to learn of all motorcycle operations, shifting gears is actually very simple. At your left foot there's a lever. Squeeze the clutch and roll off the throttle, lift it up on the lever with your toe one click, and smoothly release the clutch and roll on the throttle, and you've just shifted up one gear. Clutch and throttle, press down with your toe one click, clutch and throttle, and you've just downshifted one gear.
Your bike will have four to six gears. By nature, the bike is always in gear. There is a “neutral” position kind of midway between first gear and second gear. It's easiest to find with the bike stopped and the engine running. Put the bike in neutral only when parking on level surfaces, warming it up in the morning, or when you need to give your clutch hand a rest. There is rarely a time you'll need to put the bike in neutral when riding.
Timing is the hardest thing to learn when shifting—sometimes the bike “wants” to shift and sometimes it doesn't. (Stubborn little buggers, sometimes.) Your goal when shifting and selecting a gear is to keep your engine running in a desired rpm range—generally, at the bottom of the powerband. Only shift when you need to shift. If you shift too early, your bike will not have spun up to the desired range yet, and it will resist the shift or lug the engine. If you shift too late, the bike will want to “slam” into gear and scream in protest. If you're having trouble shifting, it's probably not your technique but your timing.
Insert Sidebar 3-5 Powerband: An area in the rpm range where a motorcycle makes maximum power due to engine design and fuel combustion rate (octane).
Shift Points
First Gear: 0-10 mph Shift up at 10 mph
Second Gear: 5-25 mph Shift up at 25 mph, shift down at 5 mph
Third Gear: 20-40 mph, Shift up at 40 mph, shift down at 20 mph
Fourth Gear: 35-55 mph, Shift up at 55 mph, shift down at 35 mph
Fifth Gear: 50+ mph, Shift down at 50
Every bike will be different, but here are some basic guidelines for when to upshift (when accelerating) and downshift (when slowing) to keep the engine spinning in the desired rpm range. Another easy way to judge shift points is to shift at a certain rpm range—check your owner's manual or performance specs to find the middle of your powerband which would be your ideal shift point.
Rear Brake
The rear brake is a complement to the front brake, and should only rarely be used by itself. In fact, consider the rear brake an accessory: it's there for convenience, but you can pretty much live without it. It's there to make you ride better. It's not as powerful as the front brake, but is useful for making minor speed adjustments and to hold the bike still at stoplights or on hills. It's also useful in emergency situations when you need your bike to make every effort to slow down, and it's especially good in situations of low traction (loose gravel, slippery pavement, ice cream on the sidewalk) where you might want to avoid using the front brake. It's also a good way to appear as if you're marching to some unheard drummer while you tap the brake at a stoplight. No matter how you look at it, it's one of the main controls, so it's a good habit to get used to using both brakes at the same time.
The Peripheral Controls
At your right thumb there is a red switch—the engine cut-off, or “kill” switch. This works exactly like the ignition key in that it cuts the power to the engine except you're able to use it without removing your hands from the handlebars.
Somewhere there'll be a choke mechanism (unless you sprang for a fuel-injected bike). Use this to start the bike when the engine is cold, “choking” off the bike's air supply, allowing it to start easier. Be careful not to leave the choke on too long—just long enough to warm up the motor a little—or it will cause the bike to run too rich and start “choking” the spark plugs and combustion process with too much fuel.
The turn signals are located at your left thumb, and have three positions: left, right, and off. Some of the more investment-intensive bikes ($$$) have fancy buttons at each grip for the signals. Your signals normally won't self-cancel so you'll have to use the switch twice every time you use your signals: once to start the signal blinking and once to stop it. To use the signal, slide it either left or right. To stop the signal from blinking, either slide the switch back to center or press it, depending on the bike.
Your lights and horn are also at your left thumb. Your headlight should always be on, so your only job is to decide whether to use high or low beam. Your horn is a great tool to draw attention to yourself, but don't rely too heavily on it—imagine a baby duck with a sweatsock stuffed in its mouth: that's what a typical motorcycle horn sounds like. The starter button is at your right thumb beneath the kill switch. If your bike has a kick starter, it's usually on the right side behind the engine. To use the kick starter, don't think of yourself as “kicking” the engine to life but rather use the kick starter as a crank to “spin” the engine to life.
