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Putting The Easy EFI Swap To The Test - Four Wheeler Magazine

Bigger, better, faster, and it will make you better looking! We’ve heard a lot of promises and claims in our time, and most of them we go by without the slightest temptation. But when MSD launched its Atomic EFI, claiming to make electronic fuel injection (EFI) conversion easy and fast, it got our attention.

one Day Efi msd Efi And A Cup Of Coffee Photo 39472102

In the past couple of years, there have been a few EFI systems introduced that promised easy installation and laptop-free tuning. In fact, they claim to be self-tuning. These are throttle-body-based systems, bolting on in place of a four-barrel carburetor. They don’t have to control the ignition system. And they don’t require a degree in air/fuel ratio technology to tune. All of that sounded too good to be true, so we decided to put one of them to the test.

If you’ve been around older 4x4s with carburetors for a while, you’ve probably toyed with the idea of swapping to EFI. The idea of a fuel system that runs at just about any angle without hiccups when your rig is bouncing all over the place is pretty appealing. But the cost, complicated installation, and laptop tuning are enough to keep most people tinkering with the 30-year-old carbs.

Self-learning systems like the Atomic EFI use an oxygen sensor to constantly monitor the air/fuel ratio in the exhaust and quickly adjust the fuel delivery to balance the mixture. Instead of a complicated fuel map (and equally complicated ignition timing map), these simplified systems give you the ability to increase or decrease the target within a specified range. And you do so through a handheld controller. With the Atomic EFI, you answer a few questions about the engine before you start it the first time, and the system will set itself close enough to start. In some cases, you won’t have to do any tuning at all.

one Day Efi msd Atomic Efi System Photo 39472105 The MSD Atomic EFI system was designed with simplicity in mind. All of the sensors except the engine temperature and oxygen sensor are integrated into the throttle body, leaving you with fewer parts to install and fewer wires to connect. It will support up to 620 horsepower. Probably the best part is that no laptop computer is required to set the system up or to tune it once it’s running!

The key to a simple install is that the Atomic EFI is a throttle body system, not a multi-point. Some people will point out that a throttle body gives up some efficiency compared to a multi-point system, and that’s true. But the ability to leave your existing intake in place makes the installation much easier, and tuning the system is also easier.

The Atomic EFI system can be used with or without a fuel return line. Most EFI systems require a return line, sending excess fuel back to the fuel tank. The fuel pump included with the Atomic EFI master kit can be pulsed. If you’re not using a return line, the electronic control module (ECM) pulses the pump to manage fuel delivery. However, if your 4x4 is susceptible to vapor lock (the fuel vaporizing in the fuel line because of excessive heat) you should add a regulator and fuel return line. Keeping the fuel moving through the lines allows it to stay cooler and avoids vapor lock.

You can order the system with a fuel pump, fuel filter, and high-quality fuel line (part number 2900) or without (part number 2910). The master kit is about $300 more than just the throttle body kit, which may seem a bit pricy for what you get. However, it can be mounted inside the fuel tank or out. If you know you’re going to run a return line and mount the pump outside the fuel tank, you can order the Atomic system and get a 60 psi inline fuel pump that moves 43 gph at 12 volts, such as the Walbro GSL392 from Summit Racing for about $115. You’ll also need a fuel filter rated for use with EFI, fuel line, regulator, clamps and fittings, which will bring you to about $300.

There are three things we recommend doing ahead of time to make sure that you can successfully go from a running carbureted 4x4 to a running EFI 4x4 in the same day. First, build the new fuel system. We’d even suggest installing it and just not making the final connections. This is especially true if you’ll use AN hose and fittings which can send you hunting for hard-to-find ends and adapters. Even with a bucket of AN fittings, we still had to place three separate orders to get everything we needed. Next, read the instructions and make sure you and your vehicle have everything that will be needed. For example, we found that we needed to upgrade our GM HEI with an aftermarket module to provide the proper tach output to the Atomic EFI. That would have been a deal killer if we hadn’t read the instructions in advance (see, they are good for something). Finally, have the oxygen sensor bung welded into the exhaust pipe. MSD provides a plug for the fitting, making it easy to get this done in advance, plug the hole and drive for as long as you need to before installing the EFI.

Taking these steps, we were able to convert a carbureted V-8 to the Atomic EFI in just a day – one person working 10 hours to be exact. We’ve driven the vehicle for a bit since the install and found it worked really well right out of the box. We didn’t have any stumbles or bogs, and the engine ran well at angles as well as over bouncy terrain. Basically, we found that the system lives up to claims—it was easy to install, runs better than the carb, and we’re better looking!

Time It Takes
3-4 hours to install fuel system:
45-60 minutes to install HEI ignition module
30 minutes to remove carb and install throttle body
2 hours for wiring
8-10 total hours for complete install

PhotosView Slideshow <strong>8:00 a.m.: </strong>We wanted to use a complete Atomic kit to make sure we tested the system the way that MSD designed it, so we ordered part #2900 which came with the fuel pump, filter, line and related components, including this interesting adapter to go from the 5⁄16-inch fuel pump to the 3⁄8-inch fuel filter. The rest of the fuel system in the kit is 3⁄8-inch. This is good for up to 525 horsepower, while a separate fuel-system kit takes the system to 620 horsepower. Choosing part #2910 gets you the Atomic system minus the fuel system. <strong>8:15 a.m.:</strong> The fuel pump should be mounted as close to the fuel tank as possible, and lower than the fuel outlet on the tank, if possible. Most inline fuel pumps push much better than they pull, so mounting it in this way will eliminate problems. The cushioned mounts reduce the sound somewhat, but you will definitely hear an external fuel pump when it’s running. You can also mount the Atomic fuel pump in the tank. The system includes a fuel filter to install after the fuel pump. You may also want to install a pre-filter between the pump and the tank to protect the pump. Something between 10 and 85 microns is fine to filter out debris but not be too hard for the pump to pull fuel through. <strong>8:45 a.m.:</strong> If you have a factory gas tank, you can reuse the original fuel pickup tube as long as it is at least 5⁄16-inch for up to 525 horsepower or 3⁄8-inch for up to 620 horsepower. If you decide to run a return line, you’ll need to drill a hole as close to the top of the fuel tank as possible and install a bulkhead fitting. In this tank, we were able to reach a wrench inside the tank to tighten the bulkhead fitting. Most fuel cells have AN fittings for both the supply line and the return line. <strong>10:00 a.m.:</strong> We decided to run a return line on this vehicle. The Atomic EFI kit with the fuel system does not include a regulator for a return-type system. Since we are also using TechAFX AN line (see “Better Fuel Line” sidebar), we chose an Aeromotive 13101-A1000 injected bypass regulator. This requires ORB port fittings with O-rings to accept the AN hose fittings. Before starting the engine, we also installed a fuel pressure gauge in the regulator. <strong>12:00 p.m.:</strong> The Atomic EFI does not require an aftermarket ignition, sort of. What it does require is a square wave tach signal. While this is a common form of tach output on late-model vehicles, most vehicles that will be converting from a carb to EFI won’t have this. Hooking up the tach input to the negative side of a coil or to the tach terminal of a GM HEI won’t work. Most aftermarket ignition systems provide a square wave tach signal, and all MSD ignition systems do. We don’t need an ignition box for this application, so the simple fix was to replace the original HEI module with an MSD module (part #83647) that produces the square wave. We are sure that we’re getting better ignition performance now, as well. <strong>1:00 p.m.:</strong> There are multiple ports in the base of the Atomic throttle body to provide vacuum for power brakes, vacuum advance for the distributor and so on. Remove the threaded plugs and insert adapters to go from the NPT threads to the appropriate sized nipple for the vacuum hoses. Teflon tape or thread sealant is recommended. <strong>1:15 p.m.:</strong> The Atomic EFI throttle body has a square bore (think Holley carb) bolt pattern. Most aftermarket intake manifolds have dual bolt patterns, accepting both spread bore (Q-Jet) and square bore (Holley) four-barrel carbs. If you have a GM or AMC manifold, you may need an adapter. We were able to reuse the carb studs. If you have a Q-Jet or Edelbrock carb, you’ll need to replace the long bolts with shorter ones. Snug the bolts in a criss-cross pattern, but do not overtighten them. <strong>1:30 p.m.:</strong> You can use just about any throttle cable or throttle linkage with the Atomic EFI throttle body. A stud is supplied with the EFI kit, but you’ll need to reuse or provide the rest of the components. We decided to switch from a salvage-yard throttle cable that was way too long to a Lokar cut-to-fit cable and Lokar throttle-cable bracket with integrated return springs. Even though there is a light spring in the EFI throttle body, external throttle return springs are required. <strong>2:00 p.m.:</strong> Next we connected the fuel supply line to the Atomic EFI throttle body. We’re using TechAFX AN line, so we made a -6 line to run between the fuel regulator and the throttle body. If you’re using rubber hose, the Atomic EFI includes a push-lock -6 AN hose end to make this connection, and you can use it with the 3⁄8-inch rubber fuel line provided by MSD. If you’re using other hose, make sure it’s compatible with push-lock hose ends. <strong>2:30 p.m.:</strong> Wiring is the second longest part of the installation, and some of that includes time to actually read the instructions. There are a lot of capabilities built into the Atomic EFI system, such as turning two engine electric fans on and off and an air conditioning idle kick-up circuit. The latter could be hooked up to a toggle switch to create a high idle on-demand for winching. Determine what you will need for your application, and pay careful attention to the connections marked “required” in the directions. <strong>2:45 p.m.:</strong> The system uses a single wide band oxygen sensor. Welding the bung into the exhaust pipe is one of the things you may want to do in advance to make it easier to complete the EFI swap in one day. You can install this in either bank of a V-6 or V-8 engine. The ideal location is 2-4 inches past the header collector. Don’t install it in the outside of a bend which would give a false air/fuel ratio reading. The advancements in oxygen sensor technology is one of the keys to modern EFI systems that can quickly and accurately self-tune to keep the engine at the desired air/fuel ratio. <strong>3:00 p.m.:</strong> The only other external sensor required by this EFI system is engine temperature. It’s ideal to install this in the cylinder head for an accurate reading. If that’s not possible, it can be installed in an upper coolant passage in the intake manifold. Be careful when routing the wires to this sensor and the oxygen sensor that the wiring is secured away from the exhaust. <strong>3:15 p.m.:</strong> There are several wires exiting the rear passenger side of the throttle body. The three-prong connector (shown) has the air conditioning idle circuit activation (orange), ignition output when used with timing controls (yellow) and the required tach input (white) which will attach to the gray tach lead coming from our MSD HEI module. A two-prong plug connects to the engine coolant temperature sensor, and another harness coming from the rear of the throttle body plugs into the ECM. <strong>3:30 p.m.:</strong> The ECM can be mounted just about anywhere, but should not be mounted in an area of high heat. It should also be somewhere that gets a little bit of airflow, not in a glove box or center console. Make sure all of the wiring will reach the location you choose. Also remember that you’ll want the ECM somewhere you can easily plug in the handheld controller. Once installed, wiring includes clicking two harnesses in place, running positive and negative wires to the battery, another to a keyed 12-volt source and running the power supply wire to the fuel pump. A relay is not required when using the MSD fuel pump. <strong>5:15 p.m.:</strong> Before you try to start the engine, you will need to adjust the two throttle blade adjustment screws on the throttle body. One is for the front throttle blades and the other is for the rear. The system will automatically adjust the idle using the idle air control (IAC) motor, but these adjustments allow you to get the throttle blades in a useable range, and lets the system compensate for a wide variety of engine displacements and camshaft profiles. For most engines, you’ll turn both screws one turn past when the throttle starts to move. Once the engine is running, you use the handheld controller to check that the IAC count is between 10-20 with a manual transmission or 5-15 in gear with an automatic. <strong>5:30 p.m.:</strong> The handheld controller plugs into the third port on the ECM. Included with the Atomic EFI is a mini SD card and an adapter. This will be used for future updates that you can download to the mini SD card using the adapter and your computer. The card then installs in the controller. <strong>5:45 p.m.:</strong> Finally, it’s time to power up the system. The fuel pump should run for a few seconds and then shut off. Check every fuel fitting for leaks. Before you crank the engine, you have to set seven variables using the handheld controller. It’s all plain English and the instructions make it easy to choose what’s needed. <strong>6:00 p.m.:</strong> Next, start the engine. If you’re used to putzing around with a new carb or older EFI systems, you’ll most likely be pleasantly surprised when the engine starts pretty quickly with the Atomic EFI. With the engine running, check the fuel pressure. You’ll need at least 45 psi, and most engines will want between 50-55 psi. If you see the “INJDC” error code in the diagnostic screen, then the injectors are working too hard, and you should increase the fuel pressure in 5 psi increments. <strong>6:00 p.m.:</strong>Even though we really like the fact that you don’t need a computer to adjust the air/fuel ratio, we also like that the Atomic EFI system lets you easily adjust a bit of fuel delivery in a way that makes it hard to mess things up or get lost. In the Advanced Setup screen, you can adjust the air/fuel targets for idle, part-throttle and wide-open-throttle. This lets you richen or lean the engine under these three separate conditions. You can also give the engine more or less fuel to improve throttle response using the Pump Squirt feature that mimics the function of a carburetor squirter. We messed with both of these on our engine and made improvements in drivability in about 5 minutes. <strong>6:00 p.m.:</strong>Like any EFI, one of the coolest features is that the system works well at any angle, and doesn’t care how much you bounce your 4x4 around. The self-tuning Atomic EFI system works to keep the engine at the target air/fuel ratio. And yes, we went from a carb to EFI in one day.

Better Fuel Line
If you’ve noticed the smell of fuel in the garage around your modified 4x4, you’re not alone. Today’s fuel is very aggressive with more additives and ethanol than we’ve ever had before. This fuel can seep through old-school rubber fuel line and braided steel hose, leaving a smell of raw fuel in a closed area. But it’s more than an irritating smell; the fuel causes quicker deterioration of these old hoses.

one Day Efi braided Fuel Line Photo 39472168 TechAFX uses semi-swivel, black, aluminum fittings to work specifically with these hoses. Unlike traditional AN hose ends, these include an “olive” that seats the carbon lining that acts as the conductive core.

We ran across a company that makes a product just for our market to address this issue. The TechAFX BlackWrap fuel hose has a polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), conductive-core inner liner that is made to work with today’s fuels. BlackWrap has an industry-first, black polyester outer covering applied over braided stainless steel to create an impact-resistant all-black hose. That means an abrasive-resistant outer layer, composition to resist the deterioration caused by modern fuel, and conductive core that eliminates the risk of static electricity buildup in the fuel line. A win-win-win.

one Day Efi techafx An Fittings Photo 39472171 TechAFX BlackWrap PTFE AN hose and fittings are available in -6, -8 and -10 sizes, and they are made in the U.S.A.!