Lizard Skin Sound Damping - Classic Trucks Magazine

Lizard Skin Sound Damping - Spray Away Noise

You may be thinking that spray-on sound damping sounds like something you’d see on an infomercial. I can say that I was a little skeptical about using a spray-on sound reducer system such as Lizard Skin Sound Control because all I have ever used in the past was some form of thick mat with adhesive on one side. Don’t get me wrong, the mat-type stuff works great but I wanted to try something that was new to me and to the market. So I gave a call to Speedway Motors and ordered Lizard Skin Sound Control (PN 91044052) and Lizard Skin Spray Gun kit (PN 91044055).

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Unsure on how much to order I got two 2-gallon buckets, but if you are only going to spray the floor, toeboards, and rear wall then a single 2-gallon bucket should cover everything just fine. Although John from Deuces Wild Hot Rods and Customs and I ran out of time, we wanted to go the extra step and cover the inside of the doors and under the headliner. This is why we ordered an extra bucket, just in case we wanted to coat non-standard areas, missed an area, etc.

We began by gathering materials that will assist in a clean install job such as liquid dish soap, 2-gallon bucket, clean rags, Scotch Brite pads, plastic measuring cup, plastic sheeting, green tape, and masking paper. Tom, a local to the shop, helped us remove the seats and carpet that just happened to be glued down with some kind of industrial super glue. You know, the kind that holds hard hats to steel I-beams. After ripping the carpet’s matting up we knew why this truck was so noisy, the carpet material was sitting flat on the metal. Nothing was helping the floor soak up the road noise and motor vibrations. Make sure that you peek under the carpet to see if it is stuck to the floor, if so it may be a good idea to price some new carpet from some of our advertisers.

After trying everything I could think of to get the matting up someone suggested I try a die grinder with a small wire wheel, and it worked very well, plus the paint didn’t get damaged. If for some reason you have any bare metal spots it is a good idea to prepare the area with a self-etching primer and let it dry before you spray on the Lizard Skin material. We then scuffed up the surface a little with Scotch Brite pads and blew off the debris with shop air. You can also use a degreaser to further clean the floor and other dirty areas but our floor was already clean.

Make sure there is no grease, fingerprints, or bare-metal spots on the surface before masking. Have you ever heard of four hours of prep for just a half an hour of painting? That would be almost true and it seemed masking off the areas we didn’t want to spray took forever. When it came time to mix the material it was very easy thanks to the mixing tool provided with the kit. We added a little water to the material as suggested in the instructions but when we attempted to spray it on the material dibbled out the nozzle. It was very hot the day we sprayed so we dumped the material straight in, no water, and gave that a try. It sprayed on consistently then. John has sprayed on several types of bed liner material and said that the Lizard Skin went on very easy, kind of like drywall spackle. CT