QuestionI have the old-fashioned Syracuse salt rust. It started with bubbling under the paint on the edge of the hood and now it's heavy flaking. Soon I'll be able to push my finger through it. I would like it to look right, as I'm getting rid of the car in a year or two. Thanks again,
Roger
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Followup To
Question -
My 2000 Chrysler Cirrus is rusting along the front of the engine hood. It must be a defect as the rest of the car of fine. With 80,000 miles on it, I don't want to spend alot of money on a new hood. Is there a simple, inexpensive way to fix this rust and make the car look presentable? I'd like to do it myself if possible. The car is black.
Thank You
Answer -
This may sound like a dumb question, but there is rust (as in brown, chalk like, light oxidation--as you find in the south where there is no salt); then there is the good old fashion type...like in the rust belt (grity sand paper like).
Tell me which one, and tell me if this car is something you want to do right, or something you want to look right?
AnswerThat's what I needed to know...were you keeping it or selling it.
If this isn't some project car you want to keep forever, then lets skip sand blasting and welding, and go to grinding and filling.
If the rust has gone through, you'll need to buy some fiberglass--this is not used as bondo, and forget about that fiberglass mesh cloth stuff. Just use ONLY enough to cover the hole(s), if any; fill any indentations, and skim coat over any remaining rust pits--NO MORE!!! Fiberglass IS NOT A FILLER--that's what bondo is for.
As for products...ask a local mom and pop auto body shop who supplies them--just call and ask.
Sand the fiber glass with 40 grit paper using a sanding block--make sure you sand it lower than your finished work, as you still need to fill, top coat, prime, and paint. When sanding, don't get crazy...try to stay in an acceptable Ares--duck tape adjacent areas off unless you want a lesson on how to do a complete restoration. Its a good idea to remove, when possible, or duck tape-off trim.
NOTE: If your rust is under the trim--THE TRIM MUST BE REMOVED!!!
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Apply bondo...you'll need to go out about 2"-3" beyond (width) what were indentations, but less is more as far has time is concerned. Apply enough to fill...plus a 1/16" - 1/8" more (higher/thicker), as you need to sand and shape this after it hardens.
Don't sand when sticky...if it doesn't harden all the way, you may not be using enough hardener. Its normal for the top to be a little tacky and to screw up the fist piece of paper on your sanding block, but the bondo should be OK to sand afterwards.
Sand that with 80 grit.
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Now top coat using a squeegee...not a plastic spreader (ask the guy at the paint store for one, he'll know).
Now dry or wet sand (80 dry, then 120 wet using wet sand paper--usually black), using the sanding block for flat areas...improvise for color areas, if any.
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Now paint...if doing a spot...I like lacquer.
If doing the whole hood...I like base coat/clear coat 2 part catalyzed paint.
Since this depends on just how big of an area you have--or have created; lets get to this point; and, then e-mail me with what you decide at that point and time...as these are two entirely different processes.
