BMW Repair: Wont start, best cars, inlet outlet

Question
Josh,
Thanks for your quick response. Sorry about the totaled 325e, I would probably have to hurt someone or something as it has infinite more value than any insurance claim would bring.

I haven't completed all the checks but do recall when I was rebuilding it that the sensors where in a precarious positin. What's the trick to replacing them without major disassemblyif I have to replace them? I know that to get the starter out before I had to remove the motor mounts and pull the engine forward just to get at the housing bolts. Is there an easier way to do get the starter out as I also have a problem with the starter sticking occassionaly, thinking it might be the solinoid.
-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
I have an 84 325e. I've had the car for 2 years. The guy I biought it from had done alot of work (electrically/mechanically and he and I rebuilt the engine. I have driven it for 2 years without any engine or running issues at all. It's actually one of the best cars I've owned. I drives and runs awesome. Plenty of power (amazing) and a very fun car to drive. I park in my garage every night.
Yesterday I went to start it and it just turned over and wouldn't fire. I took the fuel line off at the pressure regulator and turned the ignition to on and the fuel poured out. I reattached the fuel line and the car started. I started and turned it off a few times successfully. I drove it aprox 5 miles and went into a store
and when I came out it wouldn't start. I hear a hissing sound coming from what the tech disk's call a connection (i'm told it is an inline pressure regulator. It is disk shaped and has an inlet outlet the same dia.) I can sort of muffle the sound by putting my hand over it. I removed the fuel line at the same connection and it still didn't start.
It does turn over and sounds like there is no load on it.
I tried for a few minutes and it randomly started. I drove approx 5 miles back home and shut it off. I tried starting it and it started 5/6 times no problem. I drove it 5 miles and got gas. After filling it up it started and I drove the rest of the way to work (7 miles). I turned the car off and tried to restart it and it wouldn't start (turned over as before). I went to work and at 4pm tried to start it. It would not start. I tried removing the fuel line again and again had plenty of fuel. I remove a plug wire and tried to check for spark as best I could (in the pouring rain, not good!!) and could see no arcing. I have a spare car that runs good and took the coil out of that and put it in. This didn't work. I got the hissing sound to go away (which by the way was not present when the car would start) and now it won't crank over. I don't think I have a battery issue as all electricals (lights ect. work). I feel I have plenty of fuel as it smeels flooded. Could the not cranking over be that the cyclinders are full of fuel and I have great compression? Anyway, any ideas on why it won't start?
Answer -
Brian,
 Great work so far, and yes the 325e is a great car, I had one with 325,000 miles before it was hit and totalled.

 Anyhow, You need to check all the ignition components.  I have heard of these random hard-to-start conditions, and sometimes the people cannot fix it.  I would start by removing the distributor cap and rotor button, look at them closely.  if there are any pits in them, they need to be sanded (with sandpaper) down so connection can be made again.  If they are bad, you should probably buy new ones.  if it's been a while (more than 2-5 years) since the spark plug wires have been replaced, I would get a set and replace them.  You checked the coil, so it should be ok.  

 It sounds like you are getting fuel, so I dont think that's the problem, especially if it smells like it's flooded.  

 The reason the engine wont turn over, but all your lights work, is that there is just enough power to run the lights, but not enough to engage the starter.  Starter's use a TON of energy to run, so you're battery is likely low on power.

 Recharge the battery and try to eliminate the ignition problems.

 Good luck, and let me know if there are more questions,
 Josh

Answer
Brian,
 Actually The insurance paid me more than book value for the car (it was in MINT condition, except for mileage).  So I really lucked up there!

 Anyhow, I'll give it to you... I've never thought about removing the motor-mounts and moving the engine forward to get those bolts out...  That's not a bad idea!

 However, if you have some REALLY long extensions you can get a socket (with a swivel) on the bolts from the back of the transmission.  You will probably need some help to guide the socket onto the bolt.  You can do the same thing from the front.  Thread a LONG extension (2ft) from the front of the engine, underneath the intake manifold, and onto the nuts of the starter.  Having such a long extension will reduce the ammount of torque you can apply to the ratchet/pull handle, so take this into consideration.  I think only some models had nuts on the starter bolts, so maybe you wont have this problem.

 You can also reach down between the back of the engine and the fire wall with a wrench to turn the bolts.. either way is a pain.  

 Also make sure you have those Torx style sockets, you dont want to round-off one of those bolts, because it would REALLY be a pain to get out.

 I'm guessing you are talking about the sensors that are mounted on the side of the transmission bell-housing?  They are a possibility of you starting issue..

 Good luck,
 Josh