American Motors: 86 Jeep CJ7, engine lifters, jeep cj7

Question
here is follow-up question.  Thanks your suggestions were a big help, engine now running.  Been working on carburetor, having trouble getting engine to start.  Looking down carb I pump linkage and see no squirts of gas, seems dry.  tested fuel pump by removing hose on carb side of fuel filter and connecting clear hose and ran it into an empty milk jug.  Cranked engine and fuel flowed OK. About a pint in 30 secs. The fuel line enters in front of the carb and the needle valve seems to stick.  I removed it and blew hard but couldn't get needle to blow out, only can remove by hand.  Checked float and float lever and that's adjusted properly, not holding back needle.  Have you heard of bad needle valve, any remedies?  Or do you think it's another issue?

John
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Followup To

Question -
wanted a summer project, friend gave(no $) me an 86 CJ7, engine(6-258) hadn't been started in over a year.  Trying to get engine running again.  Removed plugs to take off compression, put manual trans in 3rd and pushed car, engine turns but with some effort.  sprayed WD-40, Liquid Wrench and even a little oil into plug holes. Cranked starter, engine final turns, but later seems to freeze up again(won't turn with starter but does when I push car).  Next day starter turns engine a minute or two ,but then freezes again.  Any other suggestions on how to loosen this puppy up? Or where the stiffness is coming from?

Answer -
1) Try changing the oil & filter. Being that the oil pump is driven by the distributor, remove the distributor and spin the oil pump with a HD 3/8" drill and a rigged up screwdriver bit. Be sure the oil is getting to the top of the engine, lifters, rockers, etc.
2) Pour a  mixture of WD-40 and light oil onto all of the cylinders and let it soak for a few hours. A half a dozen Tablespoons should do it. The rings might be seized and the cylinder walls could still be rusty.
3)After a few hours, with the spark plugs still OUT, try cranking it using a good battery or jumper cables.
Crank the engine over for a few seconds until most of the oil is shot out of the cylinders.
4) If successful, replace the plugs and start the engine, letting it IDLE and not revving it.
After it stops burning the oil you used, perform a cylinder leakage test. This is better than a compression test. It will give you an idea of how good the engine is mechanically inside.
Things that could be binding are rings to cylinder walls, crankshaft bearings, camshaft bearings, and clutch to pressure plate/flywheel.
Hope this helps. Let me know if you get it running.
Kevin

Answer
John,
Sounds like you need to overhaul your carburetor, or have it done. Another option would be to replace it with a rebuilt unit.
If the float needle is sticking in the seat and you don't see any gas squirting into the venturi when you pump the linkage, it is definately a carburetor problem.
If you have not been into a carburetor before, now is your opportunity. I don't know how mechanical you are. It's not real difficult, if you go slowly, remember what goes where and follow the instructions and pictures that come with the overhaul kit. Proper adjustments are critical. i.e. float level, accelerator pump rod, automatic choke etc.
Good luck.
Kevin