Chrysler Repair: 99 Sebring 2.5 V-6: dies when slowing to an idle, rotor coil, penetrating lubricant

Question
Hi, My 99 chr sebring convertable 2.5 stalls at a slow speed turning corners at least once or twice aday (such as pulling into a parking lot) with no codes? iv changed the  comlete dist/cam sen. plugs, wires,cap,rotor,coil,crank sen,tps sen,fuel filter,timing belt, and yes i have rechecked the timing belt/marks runs great at high speed a lil hesatation at low speed taking off from a stop iv checked injectors by unpluging them one at a time i had to cange one, i bought the car used 8 months ago from a 1 owner lil old ladie she said it ran fine i didnt drive it the first 3 months i wanted to check it out and inspect timing belt it did have a little miss in the tail pipe but went away with a tune up

Answer
Hi Fred,
I'm thinking it is a mixture issue that is not well detected by the on-board fault code system, specifically the egr valve may be cruddy and sticking slightly ajar when it should close tight (at idle, slowing down to idle, hard acceleration). It also can make for a difficult cold start. Here is my 'stock' suggestion on this possibility:
"The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle.  Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If it still won't start, then removing and cleaning the interior of the valve, or buying a new one if it seems too crudy and corroded inside, is the next step to getting the engine to start."
The other item would be the throttle body throat and by-pass air passageway. Clean both sides of the thottle plate, the throat, and idle air pathway with solvent.
Give those at try and let me know how it works out.
Roland
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