QuestionQUESTION: I have the 2001 sebring with the 2.7. I only have spark on 4 coils, the other 2 are firing great. I took it to the dealer and all they said is we THINK its the pcm, but it could be the cam/crank sensor, out of time, blowed head gasket, rear turn signal bulb etc. I really didn't want quessing, I can do that. I did put a new pcm and changed the cam/crank sensors and same problem exist, 4 coils no spark. I moved the coils around and they only fire on those #2 & #3. I rolled #2 up on compression and it fired so Its not out of time. I am stumped on this one. What do you think.
ANSWER: Hi Russ,
Looking at the wiring diagrams, I don't see an obvious explanation. However, have you verified whether all the dark green/light green common wire connections to the coils are showing a good steady 12v when you are cranking it? There are two radio noise suppression capacitors, one for each bank of cylinders that are connected in parallel to ground to the same dark green/light green wires and one is mounted on each cylinder head. If one of those capacitors was breaking down I can see how it might take out several coils but not 4 of 6. But you could try lifting those capacitor's connection to the cylinder head and see what happens.
Just looking at the primary wiring for those coils, it is not obvious why 2 and 3 would work, but not the other four. It appears that 2 and 4 dg/lg are a branch off of a splice on a single wire, and 1,3,5, and 6 from a different wire of a common splice, but that wouldn't explain 2 and 3 working but not 1,4,5,6.
Roland
PS Sorry for the delay as I just found your question in the 'pool' where it had been referred. Please 'rate' may answer.
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QUESTION: Yes I have 12v when cranking.I had a new key made for the car thinking the security might be armed or screwed up, but it didn't make any difference. I lost #2 fire and only have #3. Yesterday I pulled the intake to take a look at the injector connections and wires and they look fine and when I put the intake back on and plugged everything in I lost the starter and the red security light on the dash is on and the odometer reads " no bus " on the dash. Right before it locked up, all the relays started clicking and going crazy and continued for about a minute even with the key removed from the switch.I looked for a shorted wire but couldn't find one. I am lost on this one. I have called dealers from MI to FL and none of them have come across this problem.
ANSWER: Hi Russ,
If you can get the relays to click again, see which ones they are and let me know.
The power for the digital data bus 'central nervous system' of the vehicle is provided by the body computer and that module too is involved in actuating many of the relays via the data bus and is the brain for theft system. The data bus is 'seen' as a pair of twisted together wires which are biased at + and - 2.5v. all over the vehicle. But other relays are controlled by the engine controller and the trans controller (again via the digital bus) so it may not be a body control module issue only. The diagnostic readout box at a dealer would probably help to id the specific bus malfunction but its exact cause would still require sleuthing. The 'no bus' just verifies that the cluster too is missing that system's input.
Start by looking for blown fuses that are involved with the body module: 3,8,17,18,23 in the box under the hood, and 5,9,11,15 in the box behind the left end cap of the dash. Just in case, it might be worth looking at all the fuses!
Let me know if this is a sedan or a convert when you right back with the results.
Roland
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QUESTION: Hey Roland,
It is a 2001 sebring convertible. I checked all the fuses and they are all good. The EATX and the FAN relays are the only ones that are clicking now. I checked the ASD relay plug and 2 of the terminals are 12v all the time and nothing changes with key on or cranking, this relay worked before I lost the starter. I appreciate your help in this.
AnswerHi Russ,
The ASD relay would be expected to have 12v on two of the terminals, and when you turn the key to 'run' it should click sending 12v out on the dark green/orange wire for a second or so and then open again. The starter motor relay should click and activate the starter solenoid switch. So see if that relay is clicking or not. It should click if you have the shift in P or N.
I don't know why the fan relays are clicking (and presumably running the fans?) when the engine is cold and you haven't asked for A.C., correct?
It may be that your battery is just worn down from all the effort to start it recently.
Roland
