QuestionI have a 1996 Plymouth Grand Voyager. I read the thread about the Engine fuse, I had a similar incident where I hit a bump and blew the "Engine fuse". I notice that it only appeared shorted when I turned the key to start it, but not when I turned the key to the run position. I tried starting the engine with a 2 ohm resistor in place of the fuse (limiting current to 6 amps), then started the engine by shorting the starter relay - so I could watch what was going on. The engine started just fine, but the resistor got very hot while starting, but then cooled.
I let the engine run a while, and pulled out the resistor... It killed the engine as expected. However, I tried it again (with a new resistor) and the resistor did not get hot. While the engine was running, I bounced the vehicle vigorously and wiggled wires to see if I could stall the engine, or make the resistor hot, but it seemed everything was fine.
Here is the addition to the mystery. While I was driving up my bumpy dirt driveway, the engine was effected by the bumps. This time I heard a clacking sound coming from the passenger side of the engine compartment. There appears to be a vacuum device with a solenoid which slips over a flat post and has a rubber protective housing. There is a two wire connector and two hoses (one marked VAC). When I tap on it even lightly, the engine begins to stall or stalls if I tap harder, or lift the device off its post and shake it.
My questions are: Are these two problems related? What is this device? Do I need it replaced, or is there something going on with whatever controls it? Why does the engine run just fine if I disconnect the second hose (the one not marked VAC)?
AnswerHi Russ,
The device is part of the vapor recover system, probably the solenoid valve that is involved in handling those vapors. You could check all the hoses for cracks or loose clamps at either end. Then a free fault code readout at an Autozone parts store might give you a specific code to tell you what is possibly wrong. An independent shop will charge around $40. Because this is a '96 you can also get OBD-I codes with your igntion key:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then count the flashings of the check engine light and then repeat to get a reliable set of flash counts. Let me know the counts in the order of appearance and we'll see if any apply to your problem. Those codes are less detailed than the ones you will get via a reader plugged into a socket under the dash.
Is it possible that your ignition switch/key is flaky which is causing the sensitivity to bumps?
Roland
PS Sorry for the delay as your question was forwarded to the question pool when the expert you asked dropped out of the category.
