QuestionQUESTION: My 98 concorde stalled, and now will only run for a few seconds, maybe two or three. while it runs it sounds like a power servo or something under the dash. also while it runs I am unable to depress the gass pedal or it will stall out instantly. it gave no signs of this happening, the fuel pump is engaging when you turn the key so I am not sure it is a fuel problem, any suggestions
ANSWER: Hi Chris,
Tied up at the moment but will get back later this evening.
How about the theft alarm. Is it disarmed? Dying after 3 seconds is typical of that not being disarmed.
Roland
Hi Chris,
If you can ID the noise from under the dash that would be helpful. The best help would be to have the fault code readout from the plug that is under the dash next to the steering column. Unfortunately that can only be done with a fault code reader on the '98 model. If you can borrow a fault code reader or limp it to an Autozone parts store you can get a free readout. An independent shop will usually charge about $40. Ask for the 4-digit fault code numbers, what they mean, what they recommend doing, and the cost. Then write back and we can compare that with the fault code manual recommendations. Tell me which engine you have.
Roland
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QUESTION: there is no alarm on the vehicle, just an aftermarket remote car starter, which I am thinking could be the source of the problem now, I found a loose wire under the hood which I think may be a tach wire for the remote system, otherwise I've been trying to source the sound from under the dash with no luck. I was able to get the following codes from the odmoeter, p1684, p0122. p0106, p1496, and p0405. the battery is near dead which I am sure explains half the codes. I also noticed that the engine light only comes on when the car runs for the few seconds it does, turn the key to "on" and not "start" and the light stays off
ANSWER: Hi Chris,
The 0122 means the throttle position sensor 5 volt supply is probably shorted so I would check the wires connected to that for a possible short to ground of that wire. The 0106 means the MAP sensor barometric reading is unreasonable. 0405 means the same for the egr position sensor. The 1496 says the 5 volt supply voltage (which is neeed by those three sensors) is low too.
So it does sound to me like you have a short of the 5 volt supply wire to ground somewhere. You could try disconnecting each sensor and then look at the 5 volt supply wire with a voltmeter which would tell you if the sensor were shorted, or try shaking the harnesses to try and find an intermittent short. The 5 volt supply comes from pin 61 of the powertrain controller and is violet/white.
The 1496 only means that the battery power to the controller was disconnected some time in the past 50-100 key on-off cycles.
Roland
PS It is interesting that you got codes using the ignition key and reading the odometer. I didn't think the '98 allowed that... Is it possible that a different year's powertrain controller is installed?
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QUESTION: yes I too thought it was strange to get all the codes from the odometer as well, I was trying to count flashes from the engine light and just noticed the odometer, I couldn't tell you if it has a different contoller or not. so just two more questions, could those codes be coming from the fact the car won't start unless it is boosted from another battery and if not, would you know the location of those sensors? I am having the car towed today to my house. okay, just one more question, a technician at a local dodge dealership figures it must be the fuel pump because of the throttle situation, do you know of anyway to test the fuel pump, its in the tank and costs about 600 to replace. I can hear it engage when I turn the key and he said if that was the case it could be failing by not providing enough psi, but I would assume the car would sputter and such and slowly choke out, and also assume that if I pressed the gas it would make some attempt to keep running, but it just shuts down, even pressing the throttle while turning over the engine results in nothing, take the foot off the pedal and it least it runs for the few seconds
AnswerHi Chris,
It appears to me that it is not related to the weak battery, but just to be sure it would be good to charge up the battery with a plug-in charger or take the battery to a station where they have a charger, or replace the battery if it is near the end of its warranty.
The throttle sensor is on the throttle body, on the direct opposite side as the throttle lever that is operated by the accelerator cable. It has a 3-wire plug, one of which is violet/white which is the 5 volt wire. The MAP is mounted on the intake manifold, the location of which depends upon which engine you have (let me know). And the egr and its sensor is under the throttle body, mounted on a smaller pipe that comes around from the passenger side exhaust maniold. They all have the violet/white wire. So check all those wire harnesses for any signs of compromised insultation. If you have a voltmeter, then remove all three of their plugs and see if you get 5V on the violet white wire with the ignition switch in the 'on' position. If so, then try plugging each in to see if one causes the voltage on the violet/wire drops to a low value which would suggest that sensor is bad or there is a short in wire near the sensor.
Because you hear the fuel pump I would not suspect that is the problem. Because the engine dies when you move the throttle I would suspect that the throttle position sensor or its wire(s) are damaged. Its purpose is to tell the engine computer that in fact you have let more air into the intake so it compensates by sending additional gas. Thus, if the sensor doesn't work, no extra gas, the engine dies. So the idea of low psi is a longer shot only to be pursued if you have solved the 5 volt issue, find all the codes are no longer occuring, etc. By the way, you erase the codes and start anew by disconnecting the battery for a minute or so. The only code you will then have is 1496. Any subsequent codes will then be fresh.
Roland
