Land Rover Repair: oil pan, oil drain plug, aluminium alloy

Question
I have a 1999 disco 2 I removed all the screws (11) plus 3 nuts from the front timing cover an still the pan don't come down. in the back of the oil pan (bell housing) i remove 4 long screw that i though they go into the pan. still pan don't come down. if i try to put a screw driver between the oil pan and the block theres very little play but nothing. any help out there??? thanks

Answer
Hi Anthony,

careful how you pry there...this is soft metal (aluminium alloy) and you don't want to damage any surface - especially the sump.

Here's something to consider from the workshop manual:

<<
Oil sump
The oil sump is bolted to the bottom of the cylinder block and the timing cover and is sealed to both components with a one piece gasket. A removable baffle to prevent oil surge is fitted in the sump.  The oil pick-up pipe and strainer assembly is positioned within the sump and is attached at the pick-up end to a stud screwed into number four main bearing cap and at the delivery end to the oil pump. The oil drain plug is located in the bottom of the sump and is sealed with a washer.

Gasket - sump
12.60.38
Remove
1. Release fixings and remove battery cover.
2. Disconnect battery earth lead.
3. Remove dipstick.
4. Raise the vehicle on a ramp.
5. Drain engine oil.
6. Remove 8 bolts securing cross member and remove cross member.
7. Raise front of vehicle under body to increase clearance between engine and front axle.
8. Disconnect and release gearbox oil cooler pipe and discard 'O' ring.
9. Remove 2 clips securing oil cooler pipes at front of sump.
10. Remove clip securing oil cooler pipes to side of sump.
11. Remove clip bracket.
12. Remove 2 forward facing bolts securing sump to bell housing. (These are often missed)
13. Remove 4 rear facing bolts securing sump to bell housing.
14. Remove 2 bolts in sump recess.
15. Remove 3 nuts securing front of sump.
16. Remove 12 bolts securing sump flange to engine.
17. Manoeuvre sump over front axle and remove sump.
18. Discard sump gasket.

Refit
1. Clean all traces of sealant from the sump and sump mating faces using a plastic scraper or
solvent.
2. Apply a 5 mm wide bead of sealant, Part No. STC 50550, across the cylinder block to front
cover joint and across the cylinder block to rear main bearing joint. Apply a globule of sealant to cover the end of the cruciform seal.
3. Fit new gasket, dry, to sump, ensuring that locating tags are correctly positioned.
4. Manoeuvre sump into position, fit and lightly tighten 2 bolts to retain sump in place, then fit and lightly tighten remainder of bolts.
5. Working in the sequence illustrated, tighten the sump bolts to 22 Nm (16 lbf.ft).
6. Position side clip bracket, fit and tighten bolt.
7. Position oil cooler pipe clips, fit and tighten nuts.
8. Clean gearbox oil cooler pipe 'O' ring recess and mating face.
9. Lubricate and fit new 'O' ring to gearbox oil cooler pipe.
10. Position pipe and tighten nut.
11. Lower front of vehicle.
12. Position cross member to chassis, fit bolts and tighten to 25 Nm (18 lbf.ft).
13. Refill engine oil and fit dipstick.
14. Connect battery earth lead.
15. Fit battery cover and retain with fixings.
>>

You may have to break the seal carefully - use a putty knife and gently (?) insert between surfaces and slide it around to break the seal. Use a hammer - carefully.  Some say to tap the sump with a dead-blow hammer - few blows to jar it loose.  Just have to be careful with this soft metal surfaces - make them smooth and clean when you finally remove the sump.



If you prefer, send me an email and I'll respond with the instructions on how to remove the sump.

Best of luck,
JohnMc