QuestionQUESTION: my air bags in the rear are full but sometimes when i start the car all the air goes out . then if i turn it on and off it pumps up good and stays that whay.when i turn the switch on and off in the trunk it pumps back up . is this the solenoids on top of the air bags are they hard to fix and how much
ANSWER: Bill,
What type of Lincoln do you have?
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QUESTION: i am sorry it is a 1995 towncar
AnswerHave the rear air springs ever been replaced before? If not, the first thing I would do is to perform a leak test. This can be done easily without even getting your hands dirty.
The Ford shop manual recommends performing a soapy water solution for air suspension leak testing. While this is the absolute sure-fire way to leak test, if you don't have the right equipment and/or experience, the results of your test may not be conclusive. The equipment I'm speaking of is not the soapy water solution, but more the vehicle lifting equipment needed to allow you to get under the car and see most of the air spring/strut...."WHILE THE WEIGHT OF THE CAR IS ON THE AIR SPRINGS/STRUTS". An example of this would be a front end rack. The kind of rack that is used to align a vehicle and that the technician has to drive the car up onto. If the rear of the car is on the ground, you can't safely get under it to visibly see all around the air spring/strut. Using a front end rack, you can lift the vehicle up in the air and safely see the entire rubber bladder while performing the test. The problem is, most novice mechanics don't have access to a front end rack. With that being said, I have a much easier and safer approach to leak testing. I will explain this later on, but first I want to explain a few things.
First of all, the rubber used on the air spring/strut gets dry rotted mostly on the fold of the rubber, or where the rubber folds around on the bottom. This folded area of the rubber gets the blunt of the punishment and dry rots at a much faster rate than the rest of the rubber. Because this area dry rots faster than the rest, this is where your leak is going to be 99.9% of the time.
The reason the air spring/strut will leak sometime and not others, has allot to do with temperature and most importantly, where the fold of the rubber is. The area of the rubber thats on the fold, will change with vehicle height. In other words, the fold of the rubber will be in a different area while the car is being driven (city height) as opposed to when it is sitting still (vented or parked height). If the dry rotted area of the rubber is "On the Fold", this will open up any cracks in the rubber and allow air to escape.
Keep in mind that ALL the air springs/struts have their own solenoid. The solenoid acts as a gate for air. No air should go in or out unless the solenoid is opened up by the module. By turning the suspension switch off, your disabling the solenoids, thus no air should escape....unless of course theres a leak.
THE "EASY WAY" TO FIND A LEAK
By far, the easiest way to test for a leak, is to allow the car to vent down after shutting off the engine and opening and closing the door.
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO MAKE SURE THE CAR HAS LOWERED PRIOR TO TURNING THE SUSPENSION SWITCH OFF, OR THE TEST WON'T BE ACCURATE!
If nothing else, wait 5 minutes after you turn the ignition off...then turn the suspension switch off. The car should have vented by then.
After this, turn the suspension switch off and measure the height of the 4 corners of the car with a tape measure and write it down.
Now drive the vehicle for a few days.
If the vehicle has a leak, the car should go down after driving.
NOTE: Depending on the severity of the leak, it may take more than one day to leak down. This is the case more times than you would think.
By all means, if the car goes down after 10 minutes of driving, turn the switch back and resume your journey. You have answered your question.
