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QUESTION: Eric, I have removed the carb from the motor in my original question which I asked and you answered about 7-12-2013. I found the float bowl to have a green tinted covering in the bottom. I cleaned out all the passages I could see to include all the little holes in the bowl retaining piece. I also made sure the little holes by the choke butterfly allowed carb cleaner to come out. I replaced the inlet needle, and tested it by blowing into the fuel inlet. I could not get air to pass without lifting the float itself, so I know it is sealing when shut. I did as you suggested, took pictures of the linkage, did not mess with any adjustment screw, and I know everything is assembled as before. I dumped out the old gas in the tank, put new gas in. I did not replace the primer bulb. There is a number stamped on the carb opposite the air cleaner side. It is 5059B M. I cannot find a reference to that anywhere on the net. I have pictures of this carb that you can blow up on a computer and see the number for yourself among other things. They are in jpeg I believe. I did try to start this by pulling the rope. After several tries I used a little starting fluid. A few pulls later, it started, coughed now and then, but ran for about 2 minutes. I let go of the operator bar and the engine died as it should in good time. I managed to get it restarted right after that using several pulls. It ran for a few seconds then died out. So it seems after all that trouble, we are back to square one. Oh, I forgot, I installed a new spark plug using the specified plug and made sure it was gapped at .030 . I waited until the next day and tried to start it again. After several pulls, I gave up and gave it a shot of starting fluid. A few pulls later, it started. I let it run for ten minutes by the clock. It ran at good speed though coughing now and then. After ten minutes, I stopped it with the operators lever, waited 30 seconds or so and tried to restart it. After 5 pulls, it started. I stopped it, let it sit for 3 hours or so and tried to start it again. After priming it 5 times as it printed on the mower body, I gave it ten pulls without success. I pulled the spark plug, and it was dry. Seems as though I have a problem I am not finding. What did I miss in cleaning the carb or elsewhere? I see in a parts diagram I have of the LEV100-345009B engine there is a breather assembly which appears to be inside the engine block and connected to the carb by a rubber hose. There is a breather element shown. How does this come out? It appears the assembly is just pressed in the block (MY diagram lists this 12A and 12B). The parts numbers listed are 36694, 36558, and 33734. Could this be my problem? I am reluctant to remove this without first knowing how it is installed.
ANSWER: The breather just pulls/pops out. It is held is place by the rubber housing.
As for the hard start issue you can remove the air cleaner and see if fuel is coming up from the carb when you push the primer.
If it runs after priming then the ignition, compression and timing are fine...no need to remove the valve breather.
Let me know if you see fuel come up into the carb throat when you push the primer. I suspect the primer is leaking and needs to be replaced...at least re-sealed.
Eric
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QUESTION: Just wanted to answer your question. I basically did everything I did before all over again, making sure I didn’t miss probing any passages with monofilament line and cleaning with carb cleaner. I used an 11/64 inch drill bit to set the correct float height and made sure the open end of the float pin was toward the air cleaner. I did remove the primer bulb this time and cleaned out all the passages there as well as the capped idle restrictor jet. After putting it all back together, installing a new primer bulb I registered a success. Now it runs and more importantly it starts when primed. I didn’t need the starting fluid. Thanks for all your patience. I am encouraged to see if I can get the other mowers in my shed I have accumulated thanks to my son to run. Total cost besides my time for this one was about 25.00 dollars. I bought a complete rebuild set but didn’t use all of it. I have one other general question. Is there some chemical or substance that will remove the rust in a metal
AnswerIt is difficult to remove rust in metal but within the last couple of years or so several products have been advertising products to remove rust...at least convert the rust to reduce oxidation.
If you Google "Rust Remover" you will find many products. CLR is more household orientated and Metal Rescue it intended for workshop use. I have not tried many of the products so I can not say if or how well they work.
Glad to hear you got the mower running.
Eric
