QuestionQUESTION: Hey John. I am a mechanic as well... Cars mostly.
I have a sears riding mower. has a B&S 14 hp icq dual 1 vt, model no. 287707 type no. 0115-01. The crankcase filled up with gas. I rebuilt the carb.. the cylinder is still hydrolocking. I dont have a manual, so my question is.
there is a solenoid on the bottom of the bowl. I dont know what that is suppose to do. It just energizes when the key is turned on. I dont see any reason why the float and needle would not be working.
Do you know the selonoid I am talking about ?
the part number for the selonoid 695423
here is a PDF of the parts breakdown
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/pdf/illustrated_parts_list/100MS2719.pdf
ANSWER: Hello Mike:
>>The Solenoid is an Anti-Diesel Solenoid and is Designed to Stop the Gas Flow through the Carburetor Jet when the Ign Switch is Turned Off to Prevent Backfiring and Dieseling of the Engine.
>>All the Carburetors Since the Early 1990s have a Problem with the Gas Seeping by the Needle Seat and Flooding the Cylinder and then Seeping into the Crankcase Oil unless you Turn Off the Gas Shut Off Valve whenever the Engine is Not in Use.
>>If the Carburetor Needle Problem is Not Effecting the Operation of the Engine, then I Suggest you Use the Manual Cut Off Valve for the Gas or Install One if the Unit Does Not have One.
>>When you Cleaned the Carburetor, Did you Soak it Overnight in Cleaning Solution? If No, then Varnish May Still be Preventing the Needle from Seating Properly.
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I Suggest you Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor Inlet Port (if the Model does Not have a Fuel Pump). If the Gas is Free Flowing to the Inlet Port, then
>>**Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk).
>>The Primer Bulb is Held in Place with a Locking Collar at the Base of the Primer Bulb. Use a Small Flat Screw Driver and Carefully Pry the Lock Ring Up in Small Amounts All Around the Lock Ring until the Lock Ring and Primer Bulb can be Removed from the Carburetor Body. Usually a New Primer Bulb is Required when you have to Soak the Carburetor. The Rubber is Usually Rotted to Much for the Primer to be Reused.
>>Your Primer Bulb May Differ Slightly, but Removal is Usually Almost the Same Except for the Primer Bulbs that are Bolted to the Carburetor. These are Simply Unbolted and Changed with the new Primer Bulb.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve and Needle Valve Seat if Applicable. This is a Flat O-Ring Located in the Inlet Port the Float Needle Rests in. Use a Strong Wire with a Slight Bend to Remove the Old Seat. Sometimes a Small Pocket Screw Driver can be Use Also.
>>The New Seat will have a Slightly Beveled Side and a Flat Side. The Flat Side goes Towards the Carburetor Body when Inserted into the Inlet Port. Spray the Seat with Spray Lubricant to make Installation Easier. The End of a Drill Bit that is Slightly Small than the Seat can be Use as an Insertion Tool.
>>Wear Gloves or Use a Rag when Handling the Sharpened End of the Drill Bit. Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. Even the O-Ring Around the Bowl can be Reused if it is Not Broken. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Float Needle Valve (and Seat if Applicable).
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
>>Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag, if I Missed Something or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
>>PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: ok so there is a good possibility that the soleniod is the problem.. I assume its spring loaded and should be blocking the main jet until the key is turned on. When the soleniod is energized it pulls the pin down. I think the pin in mine was sloppy and sitting low but im not sure. I will have to take it out again.
Ya I tanked the carb. I have the gallon can of carb clean.
this particular carb does not have a rubber seat. The seat is brass and the rubber is on the tip of the needle.
there was no varnish anyhow, the carb was in very good shape. The only thing that bothers me is you say they are known for leaking needles yet the guy I got it from was using it for a while before he had trouble and it does not have a shutoff valve. So im bothered by the fact that the needle isnt stopping the fuel. Another good trick is to get a IV bag and fill it with gas. then run the line to the carb when its off the motor and watch to see where the fuel is leaking. In this case, I should see it come up the main jet. I assume at this point I need a solenoid.
mike
AnswerHello Again Mike:
>>I Do Not like the Fact that there is a Problem with the New Carburetor Needle Kits Either.
>>The Manufacturer is Going for Quanity and Not Quality as the Used to.
>>99% of the New Carburetor Kits are Made in Tiawan or China and as you and I Know, the Quality Assuance is Not the Same Now for Any COmpany as it Used to be.
>>Now in these Days and Times all the Companies Think Abiut is the Money.
>>Since the Late 80's and Early 90's, the Quality of the Products in All Industries has Slowly Drclined.
>>Most People would be Suprised at the Number of Parts I See a Year that are Sent Back to the OEM for Factory Defects.
>>Thank you for Bringing to my Attention the Rubber Tipped Needle. I Somehow Did Not Transfer that Information to the New Instruction File. This is Why I Like for Questioners to Use the Ratings and Comments Area. It Save More Questions for the New Questioners and I can Write Comments Back to you if Required. I will Correct the Instruction File Accordingly.
>>The Gas should be Seen Seeping Around the Needleand Seat Area. The Gas Floods the Engine Not by the Jet, but the Floods through the Carburetor Vent.
>>If you are Lucky, the New Needle Does Not Start to Seep Until After 6 to 7 Months. After that Point you can Usuall Rely on the Needle for a Few Years if the Engine is Properly Maintained. If you Tend to Use the Unit Every 1 to 2 Weeks for an Hour or Two, then you should Not have Any Major Problems. Just the Routine Maintenance.
>>I Start and Service Every Engine I have at Least Once Every 2 Weeks.
>>With the Gas they Way it has Become, I am Afraid to Let them Set Any Longer than that. I Started at Once Every 2 Months and Ended at Every Two Weeks as Being the Best for my Situtation.
>>You are Correct About the Solenoid, However the Problem is Usually the Solenoid Prevents the Engine From Running Properly. Not Starting, Not Reving, Not Idling and Rough Idle are Caused by a Sticking Solenoid.
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File I made for Checking the Carburetor Solenoid. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**Check for Current/Voltage (10.5 VDC Minimum) to the Carburetor Shut Off Solenoid. If the Carburetor Shut Off Solenoid has Current, then On Some Solenoids you can Remove the Needle and Replace the Solenoid to Test them.
>>****PLEASE DO NOT OPERATE THE MOWER WITH THE SOLENOID BYPASSED IN THIS MANNER. THIS IS "ONLY" FOR TESTING.****
>>For Others, Remove the Carburetor Solenoid and Go to the Hardware Store. Purchase a Bolt of the Same Diameter and Threads. It Needs to be 1/2" to 3/4" Long for the Horizontal Mount Solenoids and 1/4" to 1/2" Long for the Vertical Mount Solenoids. Put this Bolt in Place of the Solenoid. If this Corrects the Engine Problem, then Replace the Solenoid.
>>***NOTE: THIS IS FOR CHECKING THE SOLENOID ONLY I NEVER SUGGEST YOU OPERATE THE ENGINE WITH THE SOLENOID OUT OF THE CARBURETOR EXCEPT FOR TESTING PURPOSES***
>>Sometimes the Plunger is Moving, Just Not Far Enough to Allow the Gas to Enter the Jet Properly.** **Use 440 Wet Dry Sand Paper and Engine Oil to Clean the Pin. Wet the Sand Paper with Oil Until it is Flexable and then Lightly Polish the Pin. Use 3-N1 Oil to Oil the Pin. There is Some Slop/Free Play in the Solenoid Pin. Usually the Electromagnet is Simply Not Pulling the Pin as it Should or there is a Small Bur on the Pin. Use 440 Wet Dry Sand Paper and Engine Oil to Clean the Pin. Wet the Sand Paper with Oil Until it is Flexable and then Lightly Polish the Pin. Clean and Lightly Oil the Pin before Inserting it Back into the Solenoid. Just a Film of Oil is All it Takes.**
>>I Forgot you Said you were a Mechanic and Just Sent you the Instruction Files. LOL. Sorry About that.
>>I am Sending this Instruction File so you can Read what I Say About the Needle Kits (Both Needle Kits) for the Small Engine of Today.
>>The Following is an Instruction File I Made for the Gas Contamination of the Crankcase Oil. Any Input Concerning the File is Appreciated.
>>Depending on the Engine Model, Usually the Gas in the Crankcase Oil or White/Blue Smoke is Caused by the Carburetor Float Needle Valve Not Seating Properly and Allowing the Gas to Flood the Carburetor and Engine. Then the Gas Seeps by the Rings and Enters the Crankcase and Contaminates the Crankcase Oil.
>The Smoking is Caused Not Only by the Flooded Crankcase but can be Caused by 1 of the Following; a Bad Diaphragm in the Fuel Pump, a Blown Head Gasket between the Cylinder and Push Tube Galley, the Crankcase Vent Stuck/Frozen/Broken or the Carburetor Flooding the Engine.
>>1- Clean the Carburetor and Replace the Float Needle Valve (and Seat if this Model has One). A- **Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable) and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required.**
>>If the Carburetor Float Needle is Good, then; 2- Block the Outlet Port and Pull a Vacuum on the Fuel Pump. If it Holds Vacuum, then it is Good. If Not, then the Diaphragm is Busted and the Pump Requires Replacing. If the Fuel Pump is Good, then Check the Crankcase Oil for Gas Contamination.
>>If the Crankcase Oil is Contaminated, then Drain and Refill the Crankcase Oil with Fresh Oil.
3- **If the Mower has a Manual Gas Shut Off Valve: Check the Manual Cut Off Valve and Make Sure it is Cutting Off the Gas Flow to the Carburetor. A- If Not Stopping the Gas Flow, then Replace the Valve. B- If the Mower Does Not have a Manual Cut Off Valve: Install a Manual Cut Off Valve and Turn Off the Gas Flow when the Engine is Not in Use. These Carburetor Styles Tend to Allow Gas to Seep by the Rubber Tipped Needle Kit or the 2 Pc O-Ring Needle Kit. A I Believe I Said Before, I have Seen a Lot of these Problems and this is the Way I have Found to be Sure the Crankcase Oil Does Not become Contaminated with Gas Again.**
>>4- If the Valve is Good or has Been Installed, then Remove the Cylinder Head. On the OHV Engines the Head gasket will Blow Between the Cylinder and the Push Tube Galley. This Allow Oil to be Sucked Into the Cylinder from the Crankcase and the Extra Oil is Just Enough to Cause the White Smoke.
>>5- Check the Crankcase Breather and Make Sure it is Clean and Operating Properly.
>>6- If the Crankcase Breather Sticks, then Oil is Pulled from the Crankcase into the Carburetor Throat and this Causes the White Smoke.
>>7- If the Crankcase Oil is Good, then Check the Gas Tank Cap and Ensure it is Venting the Tank. If the Gas Cap is Not Venting the Tank, then Pressure Builds in the Tank and the Pressure Pushes Gas by the Carburetor Float Needle Valve and Floods the Engine and Crankcase Oil.
>>I Hope this Helps.
>>Thanks Again.
>>Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag, if I Missed Something or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. As Always, May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
>>PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
