Triumph Repair: Need an expert, dashpot oil, stop screw

Question
QUESTION: Hi,
I am looking for someone to help me diagnose problems with my 1961 TR3A. Can you possibly steer me somewhere?
Thanks

ANSWER: Hi Remy,
If you want to try to fix the problems yourself I would be glad to guide you. If you are in middle TN and just want to find someone to work on it I can recommend someone.
Let me know.
Howard

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hi Howard,
I am in the middle of MA, so the car would never make it to TN! although I bought it in Illinois and drove it back to the East Coast.
My problems are related to misfiring, and sputtering, especially during acceleration. A mechanic today showed me how to rotate the distributor to achieve better contact and firing. It is already much much better. My next step will be to try and sync the SU carbs, and I don't know if I need help, luck, or prayer. Any tips? I bought the sync tool, BTW, and some dashpot oil.

Answer
Sorry to hear you are in MA. I can't do anything to help that. (just kidding) But I can tell you how to tune your carbs and engine.
The synchronizer tool will be very useful to keep the carbs correct.
I always do a compression test first before I try to adjust carbs because if you have too much difference in compression on cylinders it will effect your adjustment procedure. The same goes for ignition timing.
Be sure to let the engine spin over at least 4 or 5 revolutions when doing a compression test. Also be sure to hold the throttle wide open during the test.
Set the ignition timing as per the sticker under the hood (if it is still there) If not set it at 4 deg before top dead center statically.
Then you can set the carbs. You set the carb by the reaction you get when you lift each small pin on the side of each carb so the compression and ignition timing must be correct first.
With the engine warmed up to operating temp, loosen the linkage between the two carbs. Adjust each throttle stop screw until you have them synchronized using your syncro tool and set to idle. Then tighten the linkage between the two carbs. Now lift the pin just under the edge of the top pot of the rear carb while at idle. If the engine speeds up, the FRONT carb is too rich so adjust the mixture nut on the bottom "UP" by 3 flats of it's hex. If the idle changes reset it using your sync tool and repeat the process. If the engine dies when you lift the pin, you either didn't use the sync tool or the FRONT carb is too LEAN and you need to turn the adjustment nut DOWN to richen the mixture. When the mixture is correct, the engine will drop off in RPM and start running on two cylinders and sound like an old John Deer tractor. Do the front carb the same way. When you lift the pin on the front carb you are checking the REAR carb. That is backwards to what is taught in the manuals but that is the method I was taught by an automotive engineer who use to teach Jaguar schools and it has served me well for many years is several British car dealerships. The oil in the top pot lubs the shaft and is a shock to prevent the piston from moving to quick on a quick throttle opening and to dampen the pulses at idle. It takes the place of a accelerator pump used on other types of carbs. You can use engine oil too and change the weight of the oil to get different results. To richen the mixture on acceleration use heaver weight oil. Use thinner weight oil in the winter as engine oil will get too thick in cold weather and make it too rich.
let me know how you do.
Howard