Volkswagen: TOP REPLACEMENT, accelerator cable, air leaks


Question
What do I need to be concerned about when I replace to top to my convertable?  

Also I want to change the engine on this 79 convertable from fuel injection to carburation.  Is this very difficult?

Answer
Here are some various points,  hope it helps with your top:

If you are getting a new headliner (if your's was sagging), this must go in before the top.  Make sure the tie-strings are not too tight, as it will eventually rip the top down.

Ensure the metal side cables are properly attached, and you will be able to access them to put the final torque on.

You will have to look at all of the seals, write them down, and replace any defective.

Make sure the wooden bow is not rotted in the front, if so, get a new one.  


When you remove the rear window,  make sure you don't lose the defroster wires.  Every staple holding the top to the rear window frame must be removed, or it will not go in properly.

You will have to cut the hole in the new top for the rear window.  Triple check that the top is installed straight before you make the hole.  Don't cut the hole with the top completely shut, or it will tear.  Leave the latches off.

Make sure the front 'bow seal' is on correctly and there are no air leaks.  Unscrew the 'hooks' on the latch that holds the top down.  They will need to be re-adjusted and you don't want to over tighten.

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Argh - Fuel Injection switch to Carb.  I cannot tell a lie, it is not that hard, but not recommended.

You need to get an intake manifold for a Beetle. but without the preheater lines, or you will have to replace the whole exhaust system (non-autostick), and and an alternator pedistal for a 1974 Beetle remove the FI parts, and reseat the manifold with the carb. seals.  Hook up the carb electrics to the coil.  You will need to put a different hole in the black fan housing for the new location of the accelerator cable.


If there is not a bolted on cover to the right of the distributor, you will need to buy an electric fuel pump designed for a carb.  You cannot use the Fuel Injection one for this.  If there is a plate bolted there,  get a fuel pump pushrod, short type, and a fuel pump for a 1974 Beetle, which will fit your engine.  Up to 1973 in the US, bugs had a generator.  1974 had an alternator, with a fuel pump that is slightly on an angle to fit near the alternator.  1975 was the introduction of Fuel Injection on the beetle.  Moral of the story:  Hopefully some trivia to remember, and second:  you will need a 1974 Beetle fuel pump, should you have the hole covered with a plate. The fuel pump obviously replaces the plate.   Make sure you get the plastic spacer, the pushrod (short-type), gaskets, along with the the actual pump.


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Note:  If you have a fuel injected 1979 bug,  I would suggest keeping the sytem on.  Once you study it, it is extremely simple, highly reliable.   The major issues are keeping the hoses new,  and the fuel line new.   These systems are very sensitive with vacuum hose leaks.

If you are interested in keeping that AFC fuel inj. system, let me know and I can tell you how to tune it up and get a bit more punch from it.  Every part for that system is still readily available.

I just put that FI system on a 1971 Bus, and it runs like a dream.

Your 1979 is the last year of the bug, so it is earning $$ each day.  Taking away the original FI system will decrease it's value significantly.  (If you are going to a carb --- keep the entire FI system for yourself, should you ever want to sell it for top dollar).

Keep me posted Good Luck.

Ron