A vehicle's throwout bearing allows the manual transmission input shaft to rotate, the fingers of the clutch release system to be depressed and the pressure plate released when the clutch pedal is pushed down. A bearing that fails will create either a grinding noise or a squeal from the transmission area that will go away when the clutch is depressed. away.
Park the car on a level surface. Set the parking brake. Place the jack under the front frame cross member. Lift the front end until there is ample room to work in. Set the jack stands under the cross member on either side of the jack and at the same height. Lower the car onto the stands.
Lower the jack and pull it from under the car. Move around to the rear of the car and place the jack under the differential. Lift the rear to the same height as the front, and place the jack stands under the axle housing on either side of the differential at the same height. Lower the car onto the stands.
Remove the four bolts securing the driveshaft u-joints to the differential input by turning counterclockwise with a wrench. Lower the rear of the driveshaft out of the rear yoke, and pull back on it to remove it from the transmission tailshaft. Set the driveshaft aside.
Loosen the negative cable on the battery by turning the clamp nut counterclockwise with a wrench or socket. Twist and pull the terminal off the battery negative post.
Slide under the car and remove the starter by turning the retaining bolts counterclockwise with a wrench or socket. Pull the starter out and slide it out of the way. Disconnect the transmission linkage. On some cars, this will require removing bolts by turning them counterclockwise with a wrench or socket. On others, it will require pulling a locking clip or pin with long-nose pliers.
Disconnect the clutch actuating lever from the cable or mechanical assembly. On some cars, this will require loosening bolts by turning them counterclockwise with a wrench or socket. On others, you can just slide the cable out of the yoke.
Remove the transmission rear support cross member by turning the bolts counterclockwise with a ratchet and wrench. One bolt will be on each side at the frame, and two nuts directly under the rear portion of the transmission.
Remove the bolts securing the transmission to the engine block by turning them counterclockwise. You will need extensions and the universal to reach all of the bolts. There will be between five and nine bolts, depending on the car and size of the engine. Remove the speedometer cable from the transmission by turning the retaining bolt counterclockwise with a wrench or socket. Unplug the reverse light/neutral safety switch harness by pulling it straight out and gently wiggling the connector.
Lift up on the tailshaft while supporting the front portion of the transmission (the bellhousing) with your other hand. Pull straight back away from the engine and lower the transmission to the ground.
Remove the clutch release lever from the transmission. On some cars, simply pull sharply on the lever until it comes out. On others, you may have to release a clip or twist the lever to unlock it. Slide the old throwout bearing off the lever and discard. Slide the new throwout bearing onto the lever, paying attention to alignment, and replace the lever in the transmission.
Lift the transmission into place, and slide it forward until the splines on the transmission input shaft mesh with the splines on the clutch disc. Hold the transmission in place with one hand while inserting some of the bolts into the mounting holes and turning them clockwise by hand. Insert the rest of the bolts, and tighten them all to the proper torque. On most cars, this will be between 30 and 50 foot-pounds.
Reconnect all linkages and actuating cables in the reverse manner that they came out in. Insert the speedometer gear into the transmission housing, and install the clamp yoke and bolt by turning the bolt clockwise. Tighten the bolt to approximately 20 foot-pounds.
Insert the driveshaft into the transmission tailshaft as far as it will go. Rotate the driveshaft to cause the differential yoke and u-joints to align properly. Install the u-bolts over the u-joint cups. Thread the nuts onto the u-bolts by turning them clockwise by hand. Tighten to approximately 20 foot-pounds.
Replace the transmission rear support cross member by aligning the holes in the rear transmission mount with the support and sliding the studs through the holes. Insert the frame rail bots through the holes, and thread the nuts onto the bolts by turning them clockwise by hand. Tighten these bolts to 30 to 40 foot-pounds with a socket and ratchet. Thread the mounting nuts onto the mount studs by turning them clockwise by hand. Tighten these bolts to 30 to 40 foot-pounds with a socket and ratchet.
Lift the jack under the differential and remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Repeat this process on the front.
