The Dodge Dart was a full-sized automobile produced from 1960 to 1976. As with most older cars, the Dart does occasionally have wiring problems. Thankfully, the Dart's electrical design is quite simple, which makes identifying the source of the problem fairly easy.
The vast majority of the Dart's turn signal problems can be traced to either a blown fuse or a defective flasher. The fuse box, where the fuses are held, is located underneath the dashboard on the driver's side of the Dart, while the flasher is located behind the instrument panel. If the turn signals light up but do not flash, the flasher must be replaced. If no turn signals are present on either side of the vehicle, chances are good that either a fuse has blown or the flasher is defective. If the turn signals do not work on only one side of the vehicle, the bulbs could be bad or a bad ground could exist in both signal housings. If only one turn signal on one side of the Dart flashes, the non-flashing signal probably has a bad bulb, or its contacts need to be cleaned.
If one or more light illuminate, but other lights do not, the problem could simply be a defective bulb or a blown fuse. On occasion, the metal contacts which hold the fuse in place within the fuse block become dirty, as can the light bulb socket. If all lights illuminate, but the bulbs quickly burn out, the problem is probably a defective voltage regulator, or a loose battery or alternator connection. If the lights illuminate but are dim, the problem is likely a defective battery or a discharged battery. A battery in good condition probably isn't receiving enough electricity, which is symptomatic of a defective alternator. If the lights flicker, look for a loose connection or poor ground. If the headlight are angled high enough to blind oncoming traffic, the headlights may need adjustment. However, if the Dart's leaf springs are worn or if the rear tires are underinflated, the back of the car will sag, causing the headlights to shine upwards.
If the temperature gauge either does not read at all or reads erratically, the problem might be with the sending unit located on the top of the intake manifold, rather than the gauge itself, or the electrical connections on the back of the gauge might be loose or dirty. To check the ammeter gauge, first turn the headlights on, but leave the engine turned off. If the gauge shows a charge, the connections on the back of the gauge are reversed. If the gauge shows a discharge, the gauge is in proper working order. If the gauge needle does not move at all, either the electrical connections on the back of the gauge are loose or the gauge is defective. If the oil pressure gauge does not register, the oil pressure sending unit located on the driver's side of the engine block may need to be replaced, or the gauge may be defective. If none of the gauges operate, the problem is almost always a blown fuse.
