The clutch slave cylinder on the Toyota truck attaches to the side of the manual transmission. The clutch pedal has to be depressed to generate pressure though the fluid line to activate the clutch slave cylinder, which disengages the clutch assembly --- taking the truck out of gear. A faulty slave cylinder that has too much air or cracked seals can cause hard or no shifting response. It can also cause the clutch pedal to fall to the floor. Replacing the clutch slave cylinder can be performed by the do-it-yourself repair person, following some simple steps and using basic tools.
Set the shifter in gear on your truck and pull the emergency brake. For safety, use a socket and wrench to loosen and remove the negative battery cable. Place a floor jack under the rear of the truck and lift it to place two jack stands under the frame. Lift the front of the truck with the floor jack and set two jack stands under the frame. Slide a large drain pan under the manual transmission. Use a shop light to locate the slave cylinder. It looks like a small valve, bolted to the transmission. Look for the clutch fluid line connected to it.
Spray liberal amounts of penetrating oil on the line fitting and let it soak for five minutes. Place a fuel line wrench on the flared line nut and turn it counterclockwise. Shock the wrench with the palm of your hand, if it appears stubborn. Loosing the line fitting and let the clutch fluid drain into the pan. Use a socket and wrench to loose and remove the two retaining bolts on the slave cylinder. Pull it off the transmission and discard it.
Clean the mounting surface on the transmission case with carburetor cleaner and a rag. Place the new slave cylinder up against the transmission case and start the mounting bolts in by hand. Tighten both bolts firmly with the socket and wrench, but do not over-tighten them --- the aluminum transmission case could crack. Screw the line fitting on by hand, making sure not to cross-thread it.
Tighten the line fitting with the fuel line wrench. Go to your engine compartment and locate the clutch master cylinder --- refer to your repair manual. Take the rubber cap off of it and fill it to the top with certified clutch fluid. Leave the cap off. Go under the vehicle and place a fuel line wrench on the small bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. Ask an assistant to depress the clutch to the floor and hold it there. Open the bleeder valve and let the clutch fluid escape. If the fluid pops and hisses, it indicates air in the system.
Close the bleeder valve and instruct your assistant to slowly pump the clutch pedal up and down several times then hold it to the floor. Open the bleeder valve again, letting the clutch fluid escape. Continue this process until no air appears, but only a steady stream of fluid. Always keep the clutch master cylinder filled to the top while performing the bleeding process. When clean fluid exits the bleeder screw, with no air, tighten the bleeder screw. Remove the drain pan.
Refill the clutch master cylinder and replace the cap. Replace the negative battery cable and tighten it with a socket and wrench. Lift the vehicle with the floor jack to remove the jack stands. Start the engine and shift through the gears. Check for proper gear engagement and proper free-play in the clutch pedal.
