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Mopar 4.7L Stroker Motor Part 2 - Jp Magazine

Pete Trasborg Brand Manager, Jp

We slammed the 4.7L inline-six stroker engine from Mopar Performance in our ’91 Comanche in a weekend (“Weekend Mopar 4.7L Stroker,” July ’11) and have been enjoying it ever since. Just enough time has passed since daily-driving our last 258ci-powered Jeep that we forgot what that low-end grunt was like. Once we got through the break-in period and stomped on the gas we got a very pleasant reminder. For those of you that don’t know, this stroker engine is basically a 4.0L block and HO head with a 4.2L (258ci) crank adapted to it. The stroker provides the high-end power and drivability of the 4.0L with the low-end grunt and locomotive-like pulling power of the 4.2L. It’s the best of both worlds.

mopar Stroker Motor Part 2 jeep Comanche Front Three Quarter Photo 35217895

Since we first scrambled to get the engine in the truck, we’ve converted it to four-wheel drive, taken it to Moab for Easter Jeep Safari and wheeled it for more than a week, and made it back home without a hitch. Over the past few months, we’ve racked up over 5,000 miles on the new stroker, kept lots of records, had a few problems, and came up with a few solutions. This is the second part of our three-part series with this engine. In the next part, we will throw all the usual power adders at the engine to see how it responds.

There are a lot of guys out there that have complained of problems with the way the factory computer deals with the larger-displacement engine. To date, we’ve had no problems at all once the factory computer “learned” the new engine, and that is one of the reasons for pumping up the power in the next installment. Will the factory computer ever hit a wall like so many say? Or will we be able to make the engine not only run, but make more power through simple modifications? Only time will tell, but for now, here are our experiences with the 4.7L engine in our Jeep.

PhotosView Slideshow The test mule is our ’91 Comanche with an AX-15, NP231, rear Dana 44 with 4.56 gears and a spool, and 285/75R16 Goodyear Silent Armor tires. All dyno testing was done at SR Motorcars in Gardena, California, on a DynoJet dynometer. The only thing we had to do in order to make the factory computer happy was bump up the injector size. From ’91-’06 Jeep changed the fuel pressure just about every year, so depending on the year of your Jeep you will likely need different injectors than we used. We had an aftermarket regulator on the Jeep, which bumped us from the stock 39 psi to 45 psi as measured at the rail. So, instead of swapping 26 lb/hr injectors for our factory 19 lb/hr units, we put in 24 lb/hr injectors. If you have an aftermarket pressure regulator like we did, you will also want to measure the pressure at the rail before ordering injectors. We used Accel injectors that we got from Summit Racing. Since Trasborg is the nervous type and we all have heard the horror stories of running engines too lean, we installed this analog AEM wide-band O2 sensor gauge. This way we can monitor the air/fuel ratio and make certain we aren’t running the engine lean under load. We learned it takes about 20-30 miles for the factory computer to learn the parameters of the new engine, so if you are doing this at home with no wide-band gauge, take it easy on it for at least the first 30 miles until the factory computer has caught up. While taking it easy on the engine during the break-in period, we ended up with the exact same mileage numbers we had with the 4.0L. Once we uncorked the power at the end of the break-in period, that decreased. To date, we’ve run 373.94 gallons of gas through the truck since we swapped the engine. Our average mileage has been 13.6 mpg over 5,091.6 miles. Compare that to our ’01 Wrangler with a manual transmission, 4.56 gears, a Dana 44 rear, and 33-inch tires over 5,271 miles for 14.2 mpg over the same kind of terrain. Bear in mind that those numbers include wheeling in Moab and other locations, sitting in traffic, dyno runs, as well as highway mileage for both vehicles. Our 140,000-mile 4.0L engine put down 138hp/177 lb-ft at the wheels while our 4.7L stroker put down 161hp/230 lb-ft at the wheels. While we didn’t pick up as many horses as we thought we would, we are right where we expected the torque to be. If you don’t think that 50 lb-ft is a lot, it totally changed this Jeep. It pulls like a train from 50 mph in Fifth gear until we let off the go-pedal, no matter how steep the grade. The first day over 90 degrees we looked down to find the engine temp at 240 degrees and creeping towards the red. While we sat on the side of the road waiting for the truck to cool, we had time to ruminate. The radiator was only a year old and a good three-core unit, so we doubted that was the problem. The water pump and thermostat were also good. The electric fan was working and since it does such a small portion of the actual cooling, we turned our sights on the factory fan clutch. It didn’t feel particularly loose, but this unit from our local Napa Auto Parts (PN 272310) intended for a ’97-’98 Grand Cherokee will out-pull the factory Comanche clutch any day. There is less slip inherent in the clutch, meaning that it pulls harder and puts more air through the radiator. The new fan clutch helped and we thought we’d cured it. That is, until we had the truck out on the first 100-degree day. When we got the truck, stops-leak was holding the cooling system together. So we flushed the system again, even though we flushed it twice before putting the new radiator in, and got some more chunked-up stops-leak out. The three-core copper/brass radiator has smaller cores and is more susceptible to getting plugged (that’s why we flushed the system twice before putting it in). We pulled the radiator, torched off the end cap, and sure enough, it was clogged. Rather than go junkyard again, we sourced this all-aluminum unit from Novak Adapters. They designed it and sell it with the intention of cooling LS-1 V-8s swapped into XJs/MJs, so we knew it would have no problem cooling our “little” engine. Unfortunately for us, the aluminum radiator is about 1⁄2-inch thicker across the core than the three-core copper/brass we had before. Couple that with the larger fan clutch, and it was Interference City. We can’t blame the radiator, however, as it was intended to install with a triple electric fan setup. We went without the fans for this story, as we are planning to dyno the truck before and after to see if we pick up any ponies by going all-electric. We had to tweak one of the A/C lines to get the big radiator to fit, but then had to relocate the upper post-mount-holes about 1-inch forward so that the radiator cleared the fan clutch. We were able to re-use the factory lower radiator mounts. The fan shrouds need to be trimmed at the upper and lower edges to fit the radiator. Once we got it installed, we could push the truck as hard as we wanted in the hottest weather (up to 120 degrees near Death Valley, California), and it never got out of our comfort zone or anywhere near the red. As much as Trasborg loves his gauges, he’s never had a Comanche with a working gas gauge, but instead uses the trip odometer to figure out when to get gas. On the first trip after engine break-in that tried-and-true Trasbordition failed, leaving him out of gas in the middle of the interstate. After cranking the Jeep over to the side of the road on the starter, it never started the same and lost a few rpms on the top end on the dyno. After a couple of months the factory in-tank pump started growling like a fat lady without fried food. A new fuel pump from Rock Auto (Airtex PN E7006) put the fat lady to sleep and helped with the hot-start problem, but didn’t improve the upper-end rpm limit on the dyno.