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Build An Off-Road Q-Jet Carb - 4-Wheel & Off-Road Magazine

Few off-roaders will argue with the advantages a Q-jet carb has over every other type of carburetor. The float-bowl design limits the effects that tilty or bouncy trails have on the way the engine runs, and the small primaries on a Q-jet provide crisp throttle response and respectable fuel economy. However, many 'wheelers feel a Q-jet has no place on a modified engine.

131 9803 Q Ing Up A Modified Engine q Jet Carbs Photo 35129253 Sean Murphy at Jones Performance Fuel Systems loves building Q-jets for high-performance engines because most people don't think it can be done. He uses Q-jets originally built for trucks (right) since these have extra air bleeds (arrows) that lean the mixture under normal steady load for better throttle response and economy. These carbs are rated at 800 cfm as opposed to 750 cfm for car units.

With the help of Sean Murphy at Jones Performance Fuel Systems, we're here to dispel that myth. Jones builds all kinds of carbs for every conceivable application, ranging from stock four-cylinders to 1,000hp big-blocks, and Murphy says it's not a problem to build a Q-jet to work on a modified street and off-road engine.

To make the appropriate modifications, Jones needs accurate information about the engine and vehicle usage. The first thing Murphy did was ask us details about our engine. The mill is a 350 Chevy with flat-top pistons, stock 487X casting number heads, 2.02-inch intake and 1.60-inch exhaust valves, a Lunati hydraulic cam with 228 degrees of duration at 0.050-inch lift (275 degrees advertised) and 0.478-inch lift, an ACCEL HEI distributor, 1 3/4-inch primary tube headers with 2 1/2-inch dual exhaust, and an Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold. The engine block and heads were machined to bring the compression up to 9.8:1. The engine produced 364 hp at 5,500 rpm and 396 lb-ft of torque at 4,000. That's roughly twice the power produced by many mid-'70s engines of the same size, so the fuel-mixing requirements for this engine are significantly different from a stock engine.

Murphy said the most common problems encountered when using a Q-jet on a modified engine result from a low vacuum signal at the carburetor, which causes it to draw in less air and fuel. This condition is caused by using a larger-than-stock camshaft and makes the carburetor react sluggishly. Therefore, most of Murphy's modifications were to circuits that feed fuel to the engine at or just off idle. He also offered us tips on tuning the rest of the carburetor with traditional jets and metering rods.

131 9803 Q Ing Up A Modified Engine enlarging Idle Feed Holes Photo 35129187 Truck engines with larger-than-stock cams generally give the carb less vacuum signal and therefore don't draw as much air and fuel through the carb at idle and low-throttle opening. If the mixture screws are threaded out too far and the engine still won't idle correctly, this is probably the case with your engine. To cure this, Murphy first enlarged the idle feed holes in the baseplate that provide air at idle.

Tuning Tips
For all its advantages, the Q-jet carburetor has one downfall: it can be challenging to tune for smooth, bog-free acceleration. To help you avoid name calling, here are the tuning tips Jones Performance Fuel Systems gave us. They're in the order you should follow when adjusting your carb and should result in a smooth-running unit. If you try everything twice and are still plagued by problems, inspect the timing curve of the ignition and consider whether you really have the proper-size carb for your application. These two points are often overlooked and cause more problems than carb tuning can cure.

131 9803 Q Ing Up A Modified Engine adjusting Idle Mixture Screws Photo 35129256 Start with the idle mixture screws four turns out from the bottomed position. As you adjust the screws, look for the highest vacuum reading. You may need to readjust these as you make other changes to the carb and ignition timing. PhotosView Slideshow Probably the most frustrating adjustment is the air-door tension. This controls how quickly the air doors on top of the carburetor open as you squeeze into the throttle. This is also where the famous Q-jet bog comes from. Remove the top from the carb as shown here, loosen the set screw (using an Allen wrench), and then turn the tension screw with a flat-blade screwdriver. Opening the door either more or less quickly than the engine needs it will create a bog, and a very small turn of the screw makes a big difference in the opening rate. Murphy recommends driving the vehicle at its typical highway cruise rpm, then changing to larger primary metering rods (higher numbers) until you lean out the carb and the engine starts surging at cruising rpm. Then go back one or two rod numbers. The APT can be adjusted to fine-tune this once you have the correct metering rod.
You can play with the secondary metering rods for full-throttle acceleration. As with primary rods, there are several different styles and sizes. The taper on the end of the rods determines the rate at which fuel flows through the fixed secondary jets based on throttle position. Some also have a fuel transfer slot to help cover mid-throttle transitions. The secondary metering rod hanger can be swapped to change how quickly the secondary enrichment is introduced into the engine. A lower letter stamped on the hanger indicates quicker enrichment. At idle, fuel is drawn through the idle tubes in the carb body. If enlarging the idle feed holes doesn't cure the idle, then Murphy opens up the idle tubes 0.002 inch at a time until the idle is smoother. He uses an extralong drill bit and says you'll see brass falling into the jet cavity as you drill. Murphy warns that you should only drill this by hand, and you must clean the carb very thoroughly after each modification. On the bottom of the baseplate is an idle air bypass. These holes allow air to go around the closed butterflies at idle, but some carbs may not have them drilled from the factory. They can be drilled or opened up if the previous two modifications aren't sufficient.
The primary metering rods control the cruise mixture of the carburetor but also have an effect on wide-open throttle since the tips never come all the way out of the jets. Trucks originally came with M-series rods, which have a smooth-tapered tip (arrow) for good throttle response. For best response and economy, Murphy says you should keep going up in rod size (higher numbers) until you lean out the carb and it starts to surge at cruising rpm. Then go back one or two rod numbers. The letter and number are stamped on every rod (arrow). Test at several rpm levels and remember that a larger-diameter rod means a leaner mixture.
Q-jets have an adjustable part throttle (APT) screw that varies how far the rods are allowed into the jets, changing the metering from off idle to mid throttle. This is an odd-size Allen screw from the factory, but Murphy replaced it with a Phillips screw (arrow) to cut down on tuning tools. This screw can be accessed by knocking out the factory aluminum plug in the carb top, tapping the hole 1/8 inch NPT, and filling the hole with a thread-in plug.