1/2 Ton Chevy Differential Upgrade - 4-Wheel & Off-Road Magazine

Ali Mansour Brand Manager, 4WD & Sport Utility

As certified gearheads it’s hard for us to leave a vehicle just the way the factory intended. Modifying our 4x4s is what we enjoy, and since you’re reading this magazine we’ll assume that you’re OK with that too.

gearing For Go 2004 Chevy Tahoe Towing Trailer Photo 38466565

Our ’04 Chevy Tahoe has been a great build platform and backwoods explorer. Fitted with the 4.8L V-8, a 6-inch Skyjacker lift, and 35-inch Nitto Trail Grapplers, the 1⁄2-ton Chevy platform works well for most of our needs. With the wheeling season in full effect we’re now hitting the highway more and often with a trail rig in tow.

While an intake, exhaust, and programmer have all helped to squeeze out a few extra ponies, the Tahoe tends to struggle to stay in overdrive at highway speeds. This issue has mainly been due to the numerically low differential gears that were fitted in the vehicle from the factory. As the driveshaft rotates it turns a pinion gear, which meshes with the ring gear. The ring gear is bolted to a carrier, which is what splits the power between your axleshafts. The gear ratio is the number of times the ring gear rotates for every rotation of the tires. For example, our 3.73:1 stock gearset means that for every 3.73 rotations of the driveline, the tire spins once.

gearing For Go yukon Gear Set Photo 41964885 The parts list for our ’04 Chevy Tahoe regear included two Yukon master install kits, along with 81⁄4 IFS front and 81⁄2-inch rear 4.56 Yukon gears. Yukon’s master install kits provided us with all of the necessary bearings, shims, and gasket material needed. There was no carrier break for the Tahoe, which meant we could reuse the stock differential carriers.

The 3.73-ratio differential gears were plenty for the modest factory tire size but are a tad low numerically for the way our Tahoe is outfitted. Luckily, this is not a big issue, as many gear ratio upgrades are available for the 1⁄2-ton Chevy platform. We opted for a set of Yukon Gear & Axle 4.56 gears and master install kits that we picked up from Randy’s Ring & Pinion. Yukon is known for its heavy-duty gearsets and axleshafts and has a vast parts list that covers most differentials.

gearing For Go front Tahoe Differential Photo 41964888 We decided to start with the front differential and work our way back. Since our Tahoe was fitted with a 6-inch Skyjacker suspension we were able to drop out the 81⁄4 IFS differential housing without dismantling the front suspension.

Installing numerically higher 4.56 differential gears will get the SUV’s rpm’s closer to where they were engineered from the factory. The ratio change also equates to a smoother power curve and more power, as the higher numerical gearset acts as a torque multiplier. For installation we worked with the guys at Low Range 4x4 in Wilmington, North Carolina, since they had a few of the special tools required for the gear job that our home garage was lacking. While the right set of tools can make almost any install possible in the driveway, we suggest leaving the delicate task of differential gearing in the hands of professionals.

gearing For Go front Differential Apart Photo 41964891 There are three main pieces that bolt together to make up the aluminum 81⁄4 IFS front differential case. From the factory there is a gracious amount of RTV sealant used, which required a little prying and a few taps from a dead-blow hammer to knock the cases apart. PhotosView Slideshow The 8 1⁄4 is a reverse-rotation, high-pinion differential. This means the pinion powers the stronger drive side of the gear. One major weak point of the IFS housing is that it is made of aluminum. While aluminum is lighter and does dissipate heat better, the 1⁄2-ton housings have been known to crack under heavy off-road use. To adjust the side-to-side movement of the carrier, the IFS housing uses cam gears that twist in and out. One of the biggest challenges when setting up IFS gearsets is that you have to reassemble the housing each time in order to check your gear pattern. The heart of the differential is the differential carrier. The carrier is what secures the ring gear and transmits the rotating force to the axleshafts. When bolting on the new ring gear always use a new set of bolts and Loc-Tite. Be sure to tighten the bolts to the correct torque specs as well. A loose ring gear or bolt could lead to catastrophic failure inside of the differential housing. With the front gears set up we reassembled the housing using the RTV sealant that came in the Yukon master install kit. It’s important to take care when reassembling the front assembly, as the spring and diff engagement mechanisms must be lined correctly. Failure to do so will prevent the vacuum actuator from working properly, which will leave you without four-wheel drive. The stock 3.73-ratio pinion (left) has 11 teeth, while the 4.56 ratio pinion (right) has 9. This numerical difference is also reflected in the ring gear. The higher the number of the gear ratio, the more your driveline spins per one wheel revolution. Our pinion will rotate 4.56 times to every one rotation of the tire. Traditionally there are two types of differential carrier shims used to adjust the side-to-side placement of the differential, internal and external. Internal means they are sandwiched between the carrier and carrier bearing. External, such as what our 81⁄2-inch rear axle has, places the shim on the outside of the carrier bearing. External tends to be much easier to adjust and work with. The point of the differential shims is to help tune in the ring-and-pinion gear mesh pattern. While a feeler gauge will let you know how much of a gap you have in terms of thousandths, marking the gears with paint will show you a clear indicator of where the pinion is riding on the ring gear. When checking for a correct pattern you are reading the marks on the drive side (convex outside) and coast side (concave inside) of the gear. A seal driver and hammer are two extremely useful tools when working on a rear axle. We suggest replacing your rear wheel bearings and seals anytime you’re upgrading your gearset. For the minimal cost and convenience of having the rear axle already torn down it’s well worth it. The 8 1⁄2-inch rear axle uses C-clips to secure the axleshafts. This design is less than desirable because any axleshaft or C-clip failure can result in the entire wheel and shaft ejecting from the vehicle.