When it comes to updating the front suspension of Chevy pickups there are a host of options to choose from, so we thought long and hard about what to put under our latest acquisition, a '64 C10 Fleetside. As it often happens, the more we thought about what we wanted, the more we wanted-a sentiment echoed by readers responding to our thoughts on such things in the January issue of CCT.
It seems we're all in agreement, the truck has to sit lower, it needs to handle better and ride smoother, power steering and disc brakes had to be part of the package as well. Of course these modifications had to be quick, easy, and it all had to be done on a reasonable budget. The quest to satisfy our long list of requirements lead us straight to Scott's Hotrods and Customs in Oxnard, California.
To say Scott's does it all is an understatement-they've turned out award-winning street rods such as the 2008 and 2011 Grand National Roadster Show winners, the '56 Chevy roadster pickup dubbed Heavy Metal, and many more we don't have room to list. In addition, they offer a complete line of suspension components, including bolt-in IFS systems for '63-87 Chevy/GMC trucks-which fit our needs perfectly (kits are also available for '48-53 Chevy/GMCs and Ford F-1s from '48-52).
Our Scott's suspension is based on a 2x4-inch, 316-wall crossmember. The unequal-length A-arms are made from 118x¼-inch wall DOM tubing with stainless steel billet CNC-machined rod ends. We chose a power rack, Aldan Eagle billet coilovers, 11-inch GM brakes, and a standard sway bar; however, there is a long list of options from which to choose:
Polished stainless steel A-arms
Air suspension
Polished billet spindles
Polished rod ends
Wilwood brakes (11-14-inch rotors with four- to six-piston calipers)
New power rack-and-pinion with lifetime warranty
Chrome power rack
Sway bar (polished stainless available)
Torsion style sway bar
Polished stainless steel tie-rod ends
Powdercoating
Motor mounts welded in place
While we intend to pull the cab and box to paint the frame, we were frankly reluctant to do that before installing a "bolt-in" front suspension as in the past we've found that term to be a euphemism for drilling, filing, cutting, and welding are required. In this case we could have saved ourselves some trouble as the Scott's bolt-in suspension actually bolts on-the crossmember fit as it should, all the holes lined up, and the suspension components bolted on without one expletive requiring deletion.
Although installing a new frontend on our scroungy frame is something akin to putting a $50 saddle on a $5 horse, we've decided to keep going and finish all the chassis modifications, then blow the truck apart and make everything nice. Next up is the rear suspension and figuring out what to put under the hood.
1. We installed Scott's bolt-in front suspension in a '64 Chevy pickup intending to remove it later to clean and paint everything. There was a method to our madness, but it proved unnecessary.
2. Scott's bolt-in front suspension system comes with everything required, including all the fasteners in labeled bags.
3. The day before disassembly began every fastener we could reach was sprayed with penetrating oil. It paid off as they all came apart easily.
4. With the front sheetmetal removed, the entire front suspension was unbolted and lowered to the floor.
5. Before we began installation of the new part, the frame was pressure washed-it was then set on jackstands and leveled.
6. A floor jack was used to raise the new crossmember into position. The included inner frame reinforcements have engine mounts already in place (there are a variety of block brackets available to accommodate various engines).
7. To secure the crossmember the only modification required was to enlarge the factory holes in the tops of framerails to accept Scott's hardware.
8. Like the original, the Scott's crossmember bolts to the tops, sides, and bottoms of the framerails.
9. With it bolted securely in place, we were ready to hang all the suspension parts; we also realized the error of our ways.
10. On each side, the upper A-frame attaches to the crossmember with a stainless steel clevis. Note the spacers between the clevis and the crossmember.
11. When adjusting caster and camber the number of spacers needed will increase or decrease as the clevises screw into or out of the upper A-frames. Once the adjustments are made, the attachment bolts are secured with setscrews.
12. The lower A-frames include mounts for the Aldan coilovers and the antiroll bar links.
13. Attaching the spindles is easy enough; however, the included thick washers must be used under the nuts.
14. The Aldan Eagle adjustable shocks have six valve damping positions. To increase firmness, the adjusting knob is rotated clockwise; counterclockwise softens the damping.
15. Once the spindles were in place the disc brake caliper brackets were bolted on.
16. Scott's offers a variety of brake kits; we opted for 11-inch rotors with a 5 on 5½-inch bolt pattern.
17. GM single-piston calipers are effective and affordable and if a replacement is ever needed they're as close as the nearest parts store.
18. The only new holes that had to be drilled were four to attach the new sway bar's brackets to the framerails.
19. Urethane bushings are used in the sway bar's frame mounts and pairs of rod ends attach it to the lower A-frames.
20. Installing Scott's bolt-in IFS took a weekend from start to finish-and that included taking photos, going to lunch, shooting the breeze with buddies, and looking for tools we just put down but couldn't find.
