Chrysler Repair: 05 Sebring: convertible top goes down but not up, test light, hydraulic motor


Question
Hi--I have a 2005 Sebring convertible, 2.7 liter, and I am having an issue with the top.  The top will go down but not go back up.  I have checked the relay by the hydraulic motor with a 12v test light and I get power to the motor when you push the button to put the top down but no power to the motor when you push the button to put the top back up.  Could it be the relay mounted next to the motor?  The top worked sporadically in the beginning of this year.  I have checked the hydraulic fluid and it is full.
Thank you for your help!

Answer
Hi Karen,
As I read the wiring diagrams the problem is due either to a defective power top control switch or a defective power up relay. You can check the relays with a 12v test light but to test the control switch you will need a volt-ohm meter because it doesn't use a  12v supply in its operation the way the relays do.
At the relay plug you will find a red/white wire on pin A, and a yellow/black wire on pin F.
You can probe through the insulation on each wire and also the black wire on pin D using three pins to make contact with the conductor inside the insulation of the wires. As it sits in the resting position you will find there to be 12v when you put the light between A and C, and also when you put the test light between F And C. Then when you request top down the 12v will disappear between F and C as long as you hold the switch for down, and similarly the 12v will disappear between A and C as long as you hold the switch for up (or at least is should disappear if the top up 'request' was working. If it does disappear and yet the top won't go up, then that up relay is not working properly. On the other hand, if the 12 doesn't disappear when you request up, but instead continues to show 12v between A and C then the problem is instead inside the control switch.
You can remove that switch by gently prying upward on the edge of it. Then you could try spraying some electrical contact cleaner inside the body of the switch using a spray contact cleaner at any crack/opening of the switch (available from an electronics store). If that doesn't fix it, then the resistance values will need to be measured on the pins of the switch using an ohmmeter: measure the resistance between pins 2 and 3 of the switch after removing the plug. Then notice whether the resistance changes when you ask for 'up'. If so then the switch is OK, if not, then the 'up' contact inside the switch is dirty/oxidized and needs to be sprayed and if that doesn't correct that then replace the switch.
The up/down main power motor is probably OK because it is simply supplied with either a + or a - voltage so if it goes down it should also reverse and go up. Thus the focus should be on the relay or the control switch.
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Roland