Chrysler Repair: 93 Chrysler New Yorker Transmission, chrysler new yorker, catalytic convertor


Question
QUESTION: RE: 93 Chrysler New Yorker 3.3L, V6 - Mileage 93000

I recently took the car to the shop- they replaced the water pump, thermostat and catalytic convertor (to get it to pass smog).

The car will now NOT shift out of 1st gear. I have never had ANY problems with the tranny before this work was done. My mechanic insists there is nothing they could have done to cause my non shifting problems so I am left on my own to figure out what to do next.

The tranny fluid is not a dark color. I did add about half a bottle of tranny fluid when I got the car back from the shop, and immediately took it to AAMco to make sure I added the correct amount of fluid and they said the fluid level was perfect.

My 1st question is: is there anything that could have been accidently bumped or ?? while doing the work they did that could cause this problem.

Do you think having a transmission fluid flush or change would help.

what is the difference between a transmission fluid flush and change, Ive read sometimes having a flush done causes more problems.

Can you please give me some info to help educate me before taking it someplace to have the tranny looked at.

I am unemployed and cant afford a $100 fee simply to look at it.

Thank you so much for your time and for sharing your knowledge

ANSWER: Hi Cindy,
I assume this is the new for '93 New Yorker LH-body vehicle, and not the earlier body that started in the 80's. is that correct?
It is possible that the plugs that go into the transmission got bumped so check for that possiblity. This is an electronic transmission so the plugs have to be seated in their sockets. These are on the driver-side of the powertrain at the rear end of it.
Then I would suggest that you open the square power distribution box that is located in the engine compartment near the battery (driver-side front of the ccompartment) and notice that there are three relays in the front row of four relay sockets. Look for the label on the box lid that mentions the ETAX or Transmission control relay. Find that relay and switch it out with another less important relay (like the windshield wiper relay, if it has the same part number as the ETAX relay) and see if that restores the transmission function.
If neither of those attempts restores the transmission, then I believe you will want to get a fault code readout of the transmission control module using a reader that plugs into a blue socket under the dash at the left-hand end. An independent shop with an OBS-I code reader should do that for $40 or so. Get the two digit fault code numbers that they find to be present in the TRANSMISSION control module (NOT any numbers that come from the engine control module).
Then let me know the number(s) and we'll go from there.
Please "rate" my answer (see PS below).
Thanks,
Roland

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Could you please tell me how to determine if my car is the LH-body vehicle as you asked

ANSWER: Hi Cindy,
That LH is the very modern curvy body that was made between '93 and '05 or so. The earlier body was more squarish and made in the 80's thru '93. Both were available in '93 so thus is why my question is important. The 5th digit of the VIN would be a C if it were the early version, and D if it were the curvy version. I revised my first answer just a bit so look at that again. But do tell me if you have the C body as nothing I wrote so far relates to that earlier New Yorker!
You can 'nominate' me again if you would be so kind. I am just a couple of nominations away from winning!
Roland

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Roland - I apologize for the delay in getting back to you.. I had no idea you'd be getting back to me so quickly..

In regards to the body style of my car - the 5th letter in my VIN number is a
" C "   

If having my complete VIN# would be helpful to you in helping me, please email me with an email address I can privately send my VIN# number to you.

Many Thanks,
Cindy

Answer
Hi Cindy,
That 'C' clarifies for me that I need to revise my answer for the wiring and locations of the items I described earlier to you for the "D" LH body New Yorker.
Here is my answer now knowing which New Yorker you have:
It is possible that the plugs that go into the transmission got bumped so check for that possiblity. This is an electronic transmission so the 2 plugs have to be seated in their sockets. These are on the front side of the powertrain (facing the front bumper) at the rear end of it (toward the drive's side of the vehicle). There is a transmission control module located at the right front corner of the engine compartment mounted on the inner fender wall. It has a large plug so make sure that it is seated in its socket.
Then I would suggest that you open the rectangular power distribution box that is located in the engine compartment near the battery (driver-side rear of the ccompartment) and notice that there are three relays in the row that is next to the fender. Find the middle relay of those outermost 3 and remove it and exchange it out with another less important relay (like the very middle relay of the 9 relays (relay #5) which is for the back-up lamps) and see if that restores the transmission function when you then drive it.
If neither of those attempts restores the transmission, then I believe you will want to get a fault code readout of the transmission control module using a fault code reader that plugs into a blue socket under the dash at the left-hand end. An independent shop with an OBD-I code reader should do that for $40 or so. Get the two digit fault code numbers that they find to be present in the TRANSMISSION control module (NOT any numbers that come from the engine control module which are also 2-digit and would just confuse things to have those numbers).
Then let me know the number(s) and we'll go from there.
As regards the transmission fluid and change out:
was the fluid that you used called ATF+4? If not tell me what it was because that could be causing the problem. Were that the case you would want to power flush out all the fluid not just drain it which truly only removes 1/2 of the fluid. But first which type of fluid did you use?