QuestionQUESTION: I have a 98 chrysler sebring lxi 2.5L and my distributor died a few weeks ago and since its been replaced the idling on the car when I come to a complete stop or a slow turn is so low it completely shuts off. I have already replaced the spark plugs and spark plug wires and also replaced the IAC valve and TPS sensor but it still shuts off when I come to a complete stop or a slow turn but as long as the RMP's are above 1000 it runs great. What else could be causing my car to idle low enough to shut off?
ANSWER: Hi Kayla,
Here is a suggestion I often give for your situation:
You didn't mention whether you had checked for fault codes: "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" using the ignition key and doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the odometer to see if the mileage reading is replaced with a four-digit code number. Let me know if so.
If you have done that, then we basically have one other possibility and that is that the egr valve is stuck slightly ajar which thins out the mixture too much to allow the engine to 'catch' and idle, and also to die when coming to a stop.
The valve is located by first finding the egr solenoid, a round black object with a vacuum hose, just below the oil filler cap. Follow that vacuum hose around to the rear corner of the engine to find the valve, mounted sideways in a small exhaust pipe that comes from the rear exhaust manifold hidden behind the engine. It too has a round top attached to the other end of the vacuum hose, and then a flange that separates the round top from the body of the valve which is mounted in the small exhaust pipe. In the flange area you will see a rod which is the valve stem and it has a circumferential slot into which you can insert the tip of a screwdriver so as to move the stem back and forth, against spring-action in one direction whose purpose is to close the valve. If that stem gets gummy then the stem may not move to the full closed position. So spray some WD-40 on the stem where it enters the valve body and then work the stem back and forth to be sure it moves freely and that it closes to a dead stop via the spring. Then see if that corrects the 'no start'.
I suggest that you buy no more parts until we try that, and see whether you have fault codes.
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: I just took my 98 chrysler to advanced auto parts because the check engine light was on and it's still driving really rough and they told me the codes it was pulling up was P172 and P175 (system adaptive fuel too rich in bank 1 and 2)could that be the issue of it shutting off when I come to a stop or a slow turn? If so how do I fix that?
ANSWER: Hi Kayla,
Did you check out the egr valve as I described above, because that also is listed as something to check when you show these two codes?
According to the fault code manual for your engine then the next things to check are:
1. the oxygen sensor heaters should each show a reading of below 5 ohms; also check that the other wires of each sensor are actually connected to the appropriate pins of the computer and the autoshutdown relay;
2. any of the sensors that affect mixture might be the cause: coolant temp, throttle position, MAP, intake air;
3.the catalytic converter could have a loose honeycomb (rattling) that is obstructing the flow;
an injector could be stuck open;
4.the fuel pressure regulator may be allowing too high a fuel pressure.
Sorry to suggest so many possiblities.
I would go through the list and check each one of these possibilities. If you don't know how to do that, then go to a tune-up mechanic who knows this engine.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: I feel like this car is such a money pit is it even worth me keeping or should I fix it and get rid of it?
AnswerHi Kayla,
It may very well be as simple as lubricating the stem of the exhaust gas recirculation (egr) valve so if you haven't looked for that as I described above I would encourage you to do so. It can solve the problem instantly. If you don't feel comfortable looking for it do you have a friend who would follow the instructions?
I would do that as it could be free to fix this.
On the other possibilities, the trick is to find a mechanic who is knowledgeable about this engine and sharp with diagnostic skill to zero in on the problem and to not throw parts at it hoping to hit it by chance. If you know someone with some skill I can get more specific about some of those items I listed. I wouldn't give up yet.
Roland
PS Thanks so much for the kind remarks and nomination.
