Chrysler Repair: 03 2.4L engine misses: code 0340, camshaft sensor, chrysler sebring

Question
QUESTION: Dear sir,

I have been experiencing problems with my car. it is a chrysler sebring 2003, 2.4 liter, DOHC.  The car failed to start sometimes, the autozone computer indicated that the camshaft sensor was having issues.  I replaced it and the car stopped the starting failures but it then turned to the engine missing when acceleration is in progress, even when it's parked.  I have replaced the TPS sensor, spark plugs, spark plug cables, coil harness and it didn't fix it.  I even replaced the OEM computer as an electrician told me it was the reason for the engine missing after having replacing so many parts already.  That didn't fix either.  The electrician then told me that the new OEM computer had been programmed to cut the fuel injectors at 2500 RPMs and not at 5000 RPM as a engine protective measure.  Indeed the engine starts missing when it reaches RPMs between 2000 and 2500 but I don't believe it's the OEM computer since the issue started when the car was working with the original OEM computer.  I am at a loss and don't know what to do anymore.  PLEASE HELP!

THank you for time and attention

Jose

ANSWER: Hi Jose,
Have you checked for fault codes recently? Let me know what you get and we can go from there.
About the only thought I have now is that the target magnet which interacts with the camshaft sensor may be cracked. It is very fragile, and you must not exceed a torque of 32 inch-pounds when installing it. i.e. 2.5 foot-pounds. So you might want to check that out because it appears that you exchanged on issue for another when you changed the sensor.
Roland
PS Please 'rate' my answer, and where you find the question about nominating me to be 'volunteer of the month' conside giving a 'yes' response. Thank you.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Roland,

I went to autozone and they ran their computer and it got the code for the camshaft sensor again.  They cleared the codes and ran it again and it got the same code again.  

Would it be a different code if the target magnet is cracked?  if there is a crack, would it have to be visible?

Please advise

THank you
Jose

ANSWER: Hi Jose,
There is not a specific code for the magnet, rather the self-diagnostic can only say that the signal is missing which could be due to the sensor or the spinning magnet which it is supposed to sense. I would believe that the magnet crack would be observable. The only other I can think of is too much end-play in the cam shaft which would allow the space between the magnet and the sensor to vary excessively. Of course the wiring could be the problem so check that the violet/white the carries 5V goes to pin 29, the tan/yellow signal wire goes to pin 34, and black/light blue sensor ground goes to pin 27, all at the gray plug of the pcm. Shake the harness and also check that the first two wires aren't shorting to ground. Please let me know what you find.
Roland
PS Please 'rate' my answer, and where you see the question about a nomination of me to be volunteer of the month consider a 'yes' response.
Thank you


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Roland , the pins are not numbered so I can't tell which is which. I could not find a crack on the magnet or the sensor. I did not remove the magnet from the camshaft, should I?  I have another question though,there is a round green /flat ring seal on the sensor and another similar on the camshaft around the magnet, there sould be only one or two?

Also, there is engine oil in that compartment making the sensor and magnet to be covered in oil somewhat, is that normal?

THank you
Jose

Answer
Hi Jose,
The pins of the pcm plug should be etched into the surface, and they are numbered  1-10, 11-19, 20-28, and 29-38 running from right to left so check for the wire colors to verify that you have found them if you can. There is no harm in removing the magnet to view its rear side. But don't over-torque it when you put it back in place. I don't see a reference to there being any seal, but I suspect there should only be one. You could verify at a dealer parts counter. If there is an extra one then that might make the space between the magnet and the sensor too great to generate a signal. You should be able to 'see' a voltage pulse signal between the signal wire and the ground wire if you turn the ignition switch to the run position and then turn the engine over by hand using the bolt on the crank pulley. The voltage should change from 5.0 to 0.3 several times per two completer revolutions of the crankshaft. Put fine pins through the insulation of the two wires to make the voltmeter connections.
The oil presence I cannot verify but I doubt it would interfere with the magnetic field strength.
Roland
PS Thanks for the rating and nomination.