QuestionQUESTION: -Roland
Sorry about the delay in responses. Here's your follow-up:
I suspect that one or the other engine rotational sensors is going bad because the fuel pump will not run again when cranking unless both signals are acceptable to the pcm. To verify which is the problem you can measure between the signal wire and the ground wire of each sensor at the pins of the pcm for those wires while you rotate the crankshaft by means of the cranshaft pulley bolt and with the ignition in the 'run' position. You should observe the voltage oscillate back and forth several times per crank revolution (between 5 and 0.3V) if the sensor is good.
I rotated the crankshaft and only see the 5V peak at about 60 degrees rotation for the crank sensor and only twice for the camshaft sensor. It's a sudden peak within a couple of degrees of the crank. There is no variation in the signal, it is only 5V or 0V for both sensors. There is continuity between the pcm pins to the harness for the crankshaft sensor, the camshaft sensor, and the sensor grounds.
One of the power distribution cables from the positive battery terminal was brittle and snapped, I replaced it, but still no start, just the whine of the starter.
I've replaced the distributor/cap/rotor due to excess oxidation and resistance out of spec, but still no start.
Thank you.
Shawn
ANSWER: Hi Shawn,
It appears to me that the crank position sensor is only 'seeing' one slot of a total of 12 slots in the flex plate that is attached to the crankshaft. It may be that it is positioned too far from the surface it is supposded to sense. I would buy a new paper spacer, remove the crank sensor, clean off the head of the sensor, apply the new spacer, insert the sensor and hold it in contact with the surface of the plate while you tighten the retaining screw. Then test to be sure you 'see' all 12 pulses per revolution of the crank. The cam sensor does pulse less frequently so that one is probably OK.
Roland
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QUESTION: There was no spacer on the sensor I removed. I put a new spacer on and checked the code using the key on/off method to get codes 22 and 23.
The engine still isn't firing.
ANSWER: The 22 code says the voltage on the signal wire of the coolant temp sensor is higher than it should be which suggests that there is a problem of the that circuit so check its harness. The 23 code says that the intake air/fuel charge temp sensors signal wire is too low, so similarly check its harness. Also check to see whether you are or are not getting spark which would tell you whether the cam and crank sensor signals are sufficient to satisfy the pcm. I don't believe that either temp sensor being a problem would cause a loss of spark, so check that you do have spark. How about the signal from the crank sensor, are you seeing many pulses per revolution?
Also, is it possible that instead of 22 and 23, that you might have actually gotten 11 and 12?
The 12 is due to disconnecting the battery recently, but the 11 is for a crank sensor fault.
Disconnect the battery again, which will cause a 12 but will erase the 11,22,23. Then try the starter again and read the fresh codes which will be 12 for sure but possibly something else.
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QUESTION: -Roland
The connector was loose at the ecm. After making sure the connection was snug the error codes went away. Tried to start the car a couple of times. No result.
Is the rpm gauge supposed to move during cranking? If so, mine is not.
Thank you
Shawn
AnswerI don't have personal experience with your particular vehicle, but the rpm gauge does depend upon the crank sensor signal to be good and in most vehicles there is a sign of life on the rpm gauge while cranking. Are you getting the 12 pulses per revolution when you read between the signal and the ground wires and rotate the engine by hand and with the key in the run position, of course?
Roland
